Presented to the
UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO
LIBRARY
by the
ONTARIO LEGISLATIVE
LIBRARY
1980
57116
REMINISCENCE
**<!>
EXETER FIFTY YEARS SINCE,
JAMES COS SINS,
EXETER :
PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR BY WILLIAM POLLARD,
NORTH STREET,
1877.
DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION,
TO
THE EIGHT WOESHIPFUL THE
/
MAYOE OF EXETEE,
WILLIAM CDTHBERTSON, ESQUIRE.
1877.
PREFACE.
At the request of many of iny fellow citizens, I am
induced to republish the following Letters, which have
appeared at various times in our local Newspapers, in
the more convenient form of a book, believing they will
be repcrused with some feeling of interest by those who,
like myself, have always felt a warm attachment to the
"Ever Faithful," and desire to preserve some account of
the manners and customs of our predecessors which have
been, and are now so rapidly, disappearing since the
introduction of railways and telegraphs.
If cities and towns were registered for their sociability,
popularity, and picturesqueness, on a plan similar to that
of the ships at "Lloyds," Exeter, from information gleaned
from those competent to form an opinion, would be classed
A 1. Hoping it may always continue so is the wish of
Your humble Servant,
JAMES COSSIXS.
INDEX.
Municipal Notes — PAGE
List of Mayors for the City of Exeter from 1800 . . 1
List of Sheriffs from 1830 .. .. .. .. i
Election of Town Councillors . . . . . . . . 3
Elected Aldermen 31st December, 1S3<3 .. .. .. 2
Elected Members of the Town Council from 1836 .. .. 3
Exeter Town Council, 1877.. .. .. .. 5
Police .. .. .. .. .. o
Magistrates, 1877 . . . . . . . . 5
Elections for the City of Exeter from the passing of the Reform Act, 1832 6
Mayor Choosing Fifty Years ago . . , . . . . . 7
Beating the Boundaries . . . . . . . . 8
Interesting Reminiscences of Exeter . . . . . . 10
Exeter Markets Fifty Years since . . . . . . 13
Exeter Fairs in 1820 and 1873 .. .. .. .. 18
Assizes in Exeter ahout 1820 .. .. .. ..20
Coaching in Exeter Fifty Years ago . . . . . . 22
Parish of St. Stephen, High Street, 1824 .. . . . . 25
First, or East Devon Militia, about 1826 .. . . . . 29
Reminiscences of Exeter .. .. .. .. 31
Executions in Devonshire since 1794 . . . . . . 36
Recollections of Old Exeter
News Now and Then .. .. •• ..41
A Few Recollections of the Old Ide Burlesque Elections . . 42
City Gaols
Reminiscences of Old Exeter ...
City Changes
The Eiver. A Retrospect
Reminiscences of Exeter
Past Elections
First Exeter Rifl<3 Volunteers
The Long Brook and Waterloo Place
Reminiscences of Exeter
Northernhay Fifty Years since and now
The Castle Yard and Session House
Rougemont Castle . .
Sundays in Exeter Fifty Years since
Fifth of November Reminiscences
Reminiscences of Christmas Fifty Years since
St. Thomas or Easter Fair Fiffcv Years since
PAGE
44
46
49
50
52
54
55
06
5£
58
60
CO
61
66
68
71
MUNICIPAL NOTES.
LIST OP MAYORS for the City of Exeter from 1800.
1830
R. Jenkins
1809
E. Upham
1818
T.
Floud
1827
H. Blackall
1801
T.
Floud
1810
J. Hore
1819
H.
Blackall
1828
J. H. James
1802
C.
Collins
1811
W. Lee
1820
R.
Sanders
1829
E. Sanders
1803
J.
Pinhey
1812
B. Johnson
1821
Q.
Galloway
1830
P. Measor
1804
J.
Greemvay
1813
B. Patch
1822
J.
Harris
1831
W. Kennavray
1805
J.
Wright
1814
J. Hart
1823
W
. Crockett
1832
H. Blackall
1806
s.
White
1815
J. W. Williams
1824
H.
H. Pinhey
1833
E. Woolmer
1807
C.
Collyns
1816
S. White
1825
W
. Payne
1834
P. De la Garde
1808
J.
Gattey
1817
C. Brake
1826
J.
Hart
Until the Municipal Act 1835, the above were chosen at Michaelmas.
1836 Jan. 1, S.King- 1844 E. Woolmer 1855 T. G. Norris
don, until Nov. 9, 1845 C. Brutton 1856 W. Buckingham
then 1846 W. D. Moore 1857 H. Hooper
1836 W. Kennaway 1847 Dr. Shapter 1858 T. Tanner
1837 W. Wilkinson 1848 C. Arden 1859 T. E. Drake
1838 E. Macgowan 1849 E. A. Sanders 1860 F. Franklin
1839 W. Drew 1850 W. W. Hooper 1861 W. Kendall
1840 J. Carew 1851 W. W. Hooper 1862 W. Barnes
1841 C. H. Turner 1852 R. S. Cornish 1863 T. M. Snow
1842 W. P. Kingdon 1853 J. Daw 1864 R. T. Head
1843 H. Hooper 1854 J. Daw 1865 R. T. Head
My recollections of the above are from 1824.
1866 R.
1867 J.
1868 H.
1869 R.
1870 B.
1871 J.
1872 C.
1873 C.
1874 H.
1875 H.
1876 W.
T. Head
Trehane
S. Ellis
N. King
C. Gidley
Harding
J. Follett
J. Follett
C. Lloyd
Wilcocks
Cuthbertsou
LIST OF SHERIFFS FROM 1830.
The first five were in the Old Corporation.
1830
H.
L. Grove
1843
W. Hooper
1855 W.Buckingham
1867
E.
Green
1831
E.
Woolmer
1844
B. Salter
1856
C.
Arden
1868
C.
Wescomb
1832
P.
de la Garde 1845
W. D. Moore
1857
T.
C. Sanders
1869
J.
Harding
1833
J.
Were
1846
J. Sheppard
1858
S.
S. Perkins
1870
W
. Rookes
1834
C.
Turner
1847
H. W. Hooper
1859
Dr. Drake
1871
H.
C. Lloyd
1835
J.
Tanner
1848
J. Follett
1860
H.
Bowden
1872
C.
H. Roper
1837
J.
H. Terrell
1849
T. Floud
1861
J.
Ware
1873
W. H. Ellis
1838
Di
. Stabback
1850
W. D. Moore
1862
T.
Blackall
1874
H. Wilcocks
1839
D.
Davy
1851
F. Franklin
1863
11.
T. Head
1875
J.
Drew
1840
R.
Bastard
1852
J. E. Norman
1864
0.
Cooper
1876
J.
L. Thomas
1841
H.
Hooper
1853
T. E. Drake
1865
G.
Tucker
1842
W. Kingdon
1854
T. G. Norris
1866
E.
Force
ELECTION OF TOWN COUNCILLORS.
First Election for the City of Exeter under the new Act for the regulation of Municipal
Corporations in England and Wales, 26th December, 1835.
St. SUlwelVs Ward.
Kingdon 238
Sayell 223
Nation 213
Hill 169
Hubbard 163
Pitts „ 158
Trinity Ward.
Kennaway 217
Bastard 207
Kennaway 193
Dymond 186
Tanner ]82
Crocket 176
St. Mary Major's Ward.
Upjohn 180
Measor 156
Bastard 154
Sercombe 151
Pennell 144
Carew . .., 143
St. David's Ward.
Clench 216
Furlong 195
Hayman 194
Arden 188
Langston 173
Hill... ...163
St. Paul's Ward.
Trewman 192
Ford 182
Beal 179
Burt 169
Horrell 159
Wilkinson 135
St. Petrock's Ward.
Kingdon 204
Wilcocks 199
Snell 187
Kingdon 185
Goldsworthy 185
Evans ... ...177
Aldermen. Elected 31st December, 1835.
Messrs. S. Barnes, Bond, E. Granger, J. Harris, 11. Cornish, senr., J. B. Sanders,
J. Hani, S. Kingdon, P. Measor, W. Kenuaway, T. Snow, E. Woolmer; Mr. Granger
resigned, and Mr. J. Tucker elected in his stead.
Messrs. Kingdon, Kennaway and Measor, made Aldermen, and J. Dyrnond
refusing to take the declaration, Messrs. Drew, Bastard, Davy, and Clark were
elected as Councillors in their places.
First Assessors. Messrs. Pye, Trowt, Webber. Farrant, Mauley, Tanner, Drake,
Ottley, Bishop, Howe, Maynard and Davies.
Auditors. Messrs. Ware and Upham.
January 1st, 1836, Mr. S. Kingdon having polled the greatest number of votes, was
elected Mayor, (P. C. de la Garde retaining office until the new Act came into
operation). J. J. Tanner, Sheriff. C. Brut.ton, Under Sheriff J. Gidley, Town Clerk.
M. Ellicombe, Treasurer.
Magistrates. Messrs. W. Nation, S. Kingdon, H. Blackall, Dr. Miller, J. B.
Sanders, J. Harris, Karslake, Wm. Kennaway, Dr. Barham, Sir R. Ottley. H. D.
Barton, Magistrates' Clerk.
February 8th, 1837. The plate belonging to the old Corporation was sold. The
"ilver salver was bought to be presented to S. Kingdon, Esq. (he being the last Mayor
who used it), and was given him at a dinner at the Old London Inn, May 29th. W. H.
Furlong, Esq., presided.
In contested wards, the official declaration was made in the Guildhall the following
day at Twelve o'clock. The first few years it was treated as secret voting, and thus on
a contest the result was not known until about Seven or Eight o'clock, but when it
was understood secrecy was not compulsory, the papers were looked at previously to
being deposited in the ballot box, and the result was known at the close of the poll,
Four o'clock.
ELECTED MEMBERS OF THE
TOWN COUNCIL FROM 1836.
(Arranged iu wards.)
at.
Nov.l Sidwell
1836 Pitts
Hubbard
at,
Mary Major
Tuckett
Skinner
St.
Paul
Drake
Wilkinson
Trinity
Davy
Strong
St.
Lavkl
Langston
Hill
St.
Petrock
Goldsworthy
Evans
1837
Conimin
Gill
Bastard
Sercombe
Harding
Burt
Bastard
Kennaway
Hayman
Arden
Mannder
Snell
1838
Clark
Hooper
Clench
Upjohn
Ford
Horrell
Davy
Bastard
Cornish
Furlong
Davies
Wilcocks
1839
Hooper
Laud
Daw
Cuthbertson
Drake
Hannaford
Salter
Davy
Langston
Carew
Goldsworthy
Evans
1840
Tanner
Taylor
Dewdney
Brunskill
Richards
Kiugdon
Tanner
Kenuaway
Hayman
Arden
Ferris
Brown
1841
Hooper
Clark
Clench
Upjohn
Sheppard
Froom
Bastard
Davy
Cornish
Brutton
Helmore
Davies
1842
Hooper
Land
Daw
Cuthbertson
Drake
Hannaford
Salter
Sercombe
Carew
Langston
Tuckett
Cross
1843
Tanner
Taylor
Brun«kill
Floud
Richards
Trewman
No Election
Hayman
Arden
Ferris
Wilcocks
1844
Hooper
Clark
Paine
E. Force
Froom
Salter
Bastard
Strong
Brutton
Moore
Helmore
Davis
1845
Hooper
Land
Cuthbertson
Piper
Drake
Hannaford
Sheppard
Osboin
Carew
Langstou
Duchemin
Latimer
1846
Bastard
Taylor
Brunskill
Floud
Richards
Trewmau
Hirtzell
Sercombe
C. Force
Arden
Ferris
Wilcocks
1847
Hooper
Coekram
Force
Richards
Franklin
Porter
Bastard
Nicholls
Brutton
Moore
Davis
Trehane
1848
Hooper
Land
Piper
Sayell
Drake
Burlington
Norman
Nicholls
Carew
Lisson
Duchemin
Latimer
1849
Rosters
Taylor
Cuthbsrtsou
Floud
Richards
Laidman
Sercombe
James
Force
Toby
Wilcocks
Ferris
1850
Hooper
Cockram
Force
Paine
Franklin
Porter
Bastard
Nicholls
Brutton
Moore
Davis
Trehane
1851
Hooper
Reynolds
Piper
Sayell
Drake
Salter
Norman
Nioholls
Carew
Lissou
Duchemin
Latimer
1852
Taylor
Ware
Cuthbertson
Paine
Richards
Laidman
Davy
Sercombe
Toby
Force
Osbora
Ferris
1853
Hooper
Cockram
Force
Paine
Franklin
Porter
Daw
Bastard
Brutton
Moore
Davis
Trehane
1854
Hooper
Reynolds
Piper
Sayell
Drake
Salter
Norman
Nicholls
Carew
Lisson
Duchemin
Latimer
1855
Taylor
Ware
Cuthbertson
Paine
Richards
Laidman
Davy
Wilcocks
Force
Lloyd
Osborn
Ferris
1856
Matthews
Palk
Force
Paine
Harding
Porter
Bastard
Daw
Moore
Clifford
Davis
Trehane
1857
Tanner
Piper
Salter
Norrington
Carew Hughes
Parker
Norris
Richards
Upright
Cooper Trimble
1858
Sclater
Geachsias
Kendall
Wilcocks
Horspool Latimer
Ware
Cuthbertson Husband
Davey
Force Vicary
1853
Wescomb
Force
Harding
Kennaway
Clifford Davis
Matthews
Routley
Pearse
Bastard
Moore Trehane
1860
Smith
Piper
Salter
Norrington
Carew Hughes
Tanner
Norris
Richards
Upright
Cooper Trimble
1861
Sclater
Geachsias
Kendall
Davey
Horspool Vicary
Ware
Cuthbertson
Bowden
Brooking
Force Linscott
1862
Wescomb
Force
Harding
Bastard
Clifford Davis
Rookes
Routley
Down
Huxtable
Huggins Trehane
1863
Smith
Norris
Salter
Upright
Franklin Hughes
Southcott
Cuthbertson Richards
Abell
Cooper Trimble
1864
Sclater
Geachsias
Bellerby
Davey
Norrington Carter
Ware
Cuthbertson Dipstale
Brooking
Mortimer Moore
1865
Wescomb
Birkett
Harding
Bastard
Clifford Davey
Haclley
Pearse
Down
Nicholls
Huggins Trehane
1866
Damerel
Cuthbertson
Richards
Moass
Ford Hughes
Smith
Norris
Rogers
Chalk
Whistler Trimble
1867
Sclater
Vicary
Bellerby
Davey
Burch Carter
Ware
Thomas
Dipstale
Brooking
Norrington Moore
1868
Hadley
Pearse
Lloyd
Abell
Clifford Trehane
Rookes
Birkett
Down
Lawless
Huggins Popham
1869
Pridham
Pearse
Richards
Moass
Kuapman Hughes
Smith
Gardner
Rogers
Wills
Pople Trimble
1870
Rouse
Thomas
Dipstale
Davey
Burch Wilcocks
Sclater
Gidley
Salter
Brooking
Norriugtou Carter
1871
Rookes
Pearse
Grant
Abell
Friend March
Head
Wippell
Lloyd
Lawless
S. R. Force East
St. Sidwell's Ward.
St. Mary Major's Ward.
St. Pauls' Ward.
1872
Pridham
501
Pearse
Richards
328
Stile
471
Gardner
Rogers
279
Huxtable
392
Dunn
141
Bickford
375
Trinity
Ward.
St. David's Ward.
St. Petrock's Ward.
Moass
400
Pople
27
Hughes
Dey
-240
Barnes
26
Trimble
Badcoek
223
Brown
1
Howard
....0
St. bidwdl's Ward.
St. Mary Major's Ward. St. Paul's Ward.
1873
Sclater
390
Thomas
Salter
150
Rouse
380
Jeboult
Dipstale
138
Bickford
174
Gill
51
Herbert
17
Trinity
Ward.
St. David's Ward.
St. Petrock's Ward.
Woodbridge
388
Burch
Courtenay
233
Davey ,
Brooking
320
,, 266
Norringtou
Welsford
222
211
Wilcocks
Carter....
29
St. Sidwell's Ward.
1874 Angel 439
Ware 426
Thomas 398
Bir.kford 179
Trinity Ward.
Bodley 349
Brooking 330
Lawless 279
St. Sidwell's Ward.
1875 Thomas 521
Melhuish 498
Stile 486
Trinity Ward.
Pring
Dey
St. Sidwell's Ward.
1876 Pidsley 538
Sclater 508
Rouse 507
Trinity Ward.
Davey 370
Tuckwell 359
Willey 356
t. Mary Major's Ward.
Pearse
Wippell
St. David's Ward.
Friend
Force
St. Mary Major's Ward.
Pearse
Gardner
St. David's Ward.
Brown 353
Pople 327
Jones 321
St. Mary Major's \Vanl.
Harris 234
Jeboult 220
Chudley 162
St. David's Ward.
Jones
Norrington
St. Paid'* Ward.
Lloyd 332
Pollard 307
Wilkinson 238
St. Petrock's Ward.
Huxtable
East
St. Paul's Ward.
Wilcocks 307
Rogers 300
Wilkinson 250
St. Petrock's Ward.
Hughes
Trimble
St. Paul's Ward.
Wilkinson 318
Hirtzel 263
Dipstale 261
St. Petrock's Ward.
Courtenay 241
Edwards 220
Norton 188
EXETER TOWN COUNCIL, 1877.
. Mayor— W. Cuthbertaon.
Aldermen— Messrs. Buckingham, Cuthbertson, Cooper, Clifford, Follett, Harding,
Head, Lloyd, Roper, Richards, Rookes, Thomas.
Councillors— Angel, Bodley, Brooking, Brown, Courtenay, Davy, East, Edwards,
Force, Friend, Gardner, Hughes, Harris, Huxtable, Hirtzell, Jeboult, Jones, Melhuish,
Norriugton, S. Pearse, Pople, Pollard, Pring, Pidsley, Rogers, Style, Sclater, Thomas,
Trimble, Tuckwell, Wilcocks, Ware, Wippell, Willey.
B. C. Gidley, Town Clerk ; Geo. Shorto, deputy. J. Laidman, Treasurer. H. P.
Boulnois, Surveyor. H. W. Hooper, Coroner. R. Campion, B. Ford, Revising
Asuessms. F. Pollard, T. Andrew, Auditors.
J. Gill has been City Cryer for forty-seven years.
POLICE.
Chief Constable, Captain Thos. Bent, B.M.L.I. Inspectors: F. Symes, W.
Wreford, J. Short, W. Shipcott, J. Skinner. Constables, thirty-eight in number.
Sioord \Bearer, T. Foweraker. Sergeants at Mace, G. Denning, J. Hosegood, J.
Skinner. Inspector of Traffic, F. Symes.
MAGISTRATES, 1877.
Recorder.— G. G. Prideaux, Q.C. Mayor.— W. Cuthbertson.
Messrs. S. Budd, M.D., W. Buckingham, W. Caun, W. Clifford, W. Cuthbertson,
W. Davy, J. Damerel. A. Drake, M.D., R. Dymond, C. J. Follett, F. Franklin, W.
H. Geachsias, W. Kendall, J. Knapman, R. J. N. King, T. Latimer, H. C. Lloyd, C.
Lewis, W. Mortimer, H. Norrington, R. Sanders, J. Trehane, C. H. Turner.
H. Wilcocks, ex ojficio.
Clerk.— R. D. Barton, elected 1836.
Clerk of the Peace.— 'S. J. Bremridge.
ELECTIONS FOR THE CITY OF EXETER FROM THE PASSING OF
THE REFORM ACT, 1832.
Dec. 10th, 1st day Buller 1444
„ Divett 1028
„ Follett 829
Dec. llth, 2nd close Buller 1615
„ Divett 1120
Follett 935
Jan. 5th, 1st day
Jan. 6th, 2nd day
1835.
Follett 1175
Divett 904
Buller ...808
Follett 1425
Divett 117(5
Buller 1029
1841.
June 29th, the first time the polling
was confined to one day, the unsuccessful
Candidate is the present Duke of North-
umberland.
Follett 1302
Divett 1192
Lord Lovaine 1119
1841.
Sir \V. Follett appointed Solicitor-
General, no contest.
1844.
SirW. Follett appointed Attorney-General
April 20th Follett 1293
„ Briggs ' 529
1845.
Li June Sir W. Follett's death caused a
vacancy.
Sir J . Duckworth 1258
Major Genrl. Briggs 688
1847. Sir J. Duckworth, E. Divett.
1852 July.
Duckworth 1210
Divett 1191
Buck ... ,...1111
1859 April 29th.
No contest, R. Gard, Esq., E. Divett,
Esq., returned.
1864 August 4th.
Mr. Divett having died July 26th.
Courtenay 1096
Coleridge 1070
1865.
Mr. Gard did not offer for re-election,
Lord Courtenay and Mr. Coleridge (now
Lord Coleridge), elected unopposed.
1868.
Sir J. Coleridge 2321
Bowring 2250
Sir J. Karslake 2222
Mills 2013
Voted 4470, abstainers, <Dc., 440.
1873.
Sir J. Col Bridge made Lord Chief Justice
of Common Pleas, the election took place
on December 9th, the first election in
Exeter under Ballot.
Mills 2346
SirE. Watkin 2025
Voted, 4371. Informal, 11.
General Election, 3rd February, 1874.
Mills 2523
J. G. Johnson 2330
Bowring 2264
E. Johnson 2053
Analysis of the above.
Mills and J. G. Johnson 2305. Bowring
and E. Johnson 2036. Mills and Bowring
181. Mills 30. Bowring 31. Bowring
and J. G. Johnson 10. Mills and E.
Johnson 7. Johnson and Johnson, 7.
E. Johnson 3. J. Johnson 2.
MAYOR CHOOSING FIFTY YEAES AGO.
The election of Mayors for the city of Exeter, under the old
Chamber, was about Michaelmas ; the Mayors were nominated by
the body, the freemen being nominally the electors. I never
remember any opposition.
On the day of election, the members of the body and freemen
assembled in the Guildhall ; the intended Mayor was proposed,
with the other officials ; after taking the oath and duly signing the
documents, on the cheering subsiding, the Hall echoed the sound
of various drawings of bottled wine corks, the liquor being freely
passed around the table, the nearest outsiders also having the
privilege of tasting, or an old familiar face in the back ground
would have a glass sent to him. A procession was then formed to
perambulate the city walls, headed by the tradesmen's corps of
constables, about twenty-four in number ; then the staff and mace-
bearers, sword-bearer, the Mayor-elect walking uncovered, with his
hat in hand ; Aldermen, with scarlet robes and three-cornered hats,
followed by members and officials ; in the rear being three trades-
men's sons, named Mayor's stewards, (the outside one called gutter
steward), wearing long black robes, with tufts and three-cornered
hats, who had the privilege of dining at the Mayor's banquets.
Some of the electors and inhabitants would accompany the pro-
cession, and give vent to their feelings by an occasional cheer.
The route was from the Guildhall, up High street, right hand
path to the Mayor's Chapel, St. John's Hospital; thence on the
walls down Southernhay, crossing the road to the steps by the side
of the Theatre ; thence to Trinity Church, again crossing the road
to the walls at the shop now occupied by Mr. Acland, bookbinder ;
then through Mr. Hirtzel's (wine merchant) garden, now Mr.
Dicker's, organ builder, to Water gate, Quay hill, where a man
was waiting with two lai'ge baskets of apples, which were thrown
about for a general scramble. This amusement over, they pro-
ceeded through West gate and Bartholomew street to Snail tower
and Bartholomew yard, where two more baskets of apples were
distributed as before. From thence across North street up to S.
Mortimore, Esq.'s, where wine was waiting their arrival. On
leaving they crossed over Maddox row (this is the only arch re-
maining on the town walls) to Rougemont Castle, thence to Castle
street, making their exit at East gate, from behind the premises
now occupied by Mr. Mark Eowe. The ceremony wound up in the
evening with the good old English custom of dinner.
8
P. C. de la Garde, Esq., was the last Mayor of the old Chamber.
The only survivors of the body are Dr. Shapter, C. Turner, J.
Were, and T. G. Norris, Esqrs. ; officials — J. Gully, late governor
of the City Prison, and T. Foweraker, now sword bearer. On
gala-days the various trade guilds preceded the Corporation, with
their various banners, flags, &c.
I witnessed the last time of their going to the Cathedral on a
Sunday ; also the first under the present Municipal Act, S. Kingdon,
Esq., being the first Mayor. From 1836 to the present time there
have been thirty- seven Mayors, of whom twenty-one are now living.
Out of the first elected councillors for 1835 and 1836, and aldermen,
magistrates, and officials, numbering about eighty, there are only
four surviving, namely, J. Clench, T. Drake, J. H. Terrell, and H.
D. Barton, Esqs. ; the latter was elected magistrates' clerk in 1836.
About 1830 I believe there were about 400 freemen on the list;
in January, 1835, the numbers polled at the city election were —
Follett 194, Buller 144, Divett 103. Tn 1845 there were about 350,
of whom 270 voted — 215 for Sir J. Duckworth, and 55 for General
Briggs. In 1864, 187 voted — Courtenay 130, Coleridge 54 Now
there are about 160 on the list.
BEATING THE BOUNDAEIES.
The Exeter Corporation were accustomed to beat the boundaries
two days previous to the parishes, on the Tuesday before Ascension
Day, accompanied by the Mayor, Chamber, and blue boys of St.
John's Hospital, this being a red letter day for the juveniles of the
above school. Mr. Pickett, schoolmaster, said it was the most rest-
less night of the year, the boys anxiously waiting for daylight.
About five o'clock they left the school-house, accompanied by a
" Captain" (Mr. Webber, tailor, St. Sidwell's, whose son, acting in
the same capacity, went round this week), carrying a pole bedecked
with flowers, and proceeded to the then Mayor's residence, and
gave him a hearty cheering. From thence they went to the Guild-
hall to meet any pai'ties wishing to go the rounds, the route being
through South street to Larkbeare, and thence across to the upper
part of the Quay adjoining Counsellor White's house, where a boat
was awaiting their arrival. By the side of this house was an
arched sewer, which one of the boys went through. The boat then
left, skirting the walls of the Quay. On passing the ships the
occupants of the boats were drenched with buckets of water. In
those days as many as twenty to thirty vessels were usually to be
seen at the Quay. The boat was then steered to the point, now
Messrs. Gabriel's timber yard : awaiting the arrival were a number
of men, who either upset the boat or took the occupants and dipped
them under water. After proceeding up the field to Exe Bridge,
the party divided, one portion going the Exwick side of the river,
the other going through the Bonhay on that side, meeting at Cowley
Bridge, where they breakfasted. Weather permitting, the elder
boys would swim across the river. The first to return with a leaf
in his mouth had a shilling given him. They then proceeded up
the hill to Marypole Head on their way home. Having put on
their beet clothes, each boy had a blue rosette attached to his coat,
and they went through the High street, with their captain, to the
Market House Inn, where a substantial dinner was provided at the
Market by Mr. Tapper.
The parochial bounds were beaten on Ascension Day by parish-
ioners, accompanied by the clergymen, wardens, &c., who afterwards
dined together at one of the hotels or inns in the parish. On this
day it wasjconsidered lawful to throw water over any parties passing,
and in many streets a pond would be made, and unless some pence
were thrown in, the boys would splash the water over passers-by,
and such dread was thera of these customs that parties in the
country would not come into the city on that day, unless necessity
compelled. In the evening boys would assemble outside the houses
where the parishioners were dining, and pence would be thrown
out of the window for a scramble. Sometimes the coppers under-
went the process of heating.
About a fortnight previous to this day the boys would meet in the
evening, armed with sticks, to uphold the honour of their parish,
which was called 'parish fighting.' The most formidable meet was
on Northernhay, between St. David's and St. Sidwell's, the boundary
being the posts, which were in a line with the entrance to Mr. Carr's.
The posts were put there to prevent carriages going over Northern-
hay. The contention was so great for the honour of the respective
parishes that it often resulted in broken heads. The contention
between Trinity boys versus St. Mary Major's was also noted. If,
by chance, any of the different parishes met in their perambulations,
there was a desperate struggle to disarm each other ; but the great
event was to wait in the New London Inn Square, as the parishes
of St. David's and St. Sidweli's generally finished the rounds at the
same time at this point. Then commenced, not a sham fight, but
an earnest one, many of the combatants being young men. The
parishioners at times were obliged to interfere, there being no police
force then.
10
It was the custom, in the different parishes, to provide white rods
for the juveniles. In the parish of St. Stephen's, being a small one,
the sextoness took the rods to the different houses, and with them a
piece of red tape to attach to the top ; also, on Ascension Day, hot
rolls for breakfast to all ratepayers, according to the number of the
family ; a large roll about 1 8 inches in length, was made for the
clerk and one for the sexton. The parishioners dined at the Half
Moon, and it was considered the most convivial gathering in the
city. Between thirty and forty sat round the festive board. The
wardens sent an invitation card to gentlemen residing in the pre-
cinct of Bedford. A dinner was provided at the same place for
clerk, sexton, sextoness, and bellows-blower.
INTERESTING REMINISCENCES OF EXETER.
Half a century has made wonderful changes in this city. Those
of our readers whose memory will carry them back to the old gates
will, doubtless, peruse the following reminiscences with much
interest, as they will also, we feel, prove equally interesting to those
of our fellow citizens who cannot recollect the time when ninety
coaches passed through the city daily. It will be seen that there
are but few of the old firms in existence now.
Subscriptions Rooms opened with a musical festival, 17 October,
1820 ; site originally used for horsemanships and exhibitions.
LONDON INN SQUARE. — J. Clench, New London Inn (daily average
of coaches — ninety) : J. Pratt, Old London Inn (present Bude
Haven) : England, butcher : Thompson, Bristol Inn : Discombe,
grocer : Pippett, hosier : Darke, butcher : Smale, White Horse Inn
(the bar of which projected as far as the present kerb with steps for
mounting horses, and entrance to court yard behind).
HIGH STREET, — Franklin, coach builder : Cole and Gendall;
carvers and gilders : Nicholls, hair dresser : Rickard, watchmaker:
Hill, spirit merchant : Lake, jeweller : Roberts, confectioner :
Abraham, optician : Spreat, bookseller : Spratt, Tinman : Damerel,
ironmonger : Pratt, chemist : Jewell, watchmaker : Hunt, eating
house • Porch entrance to Newcombe's, cooper : Tucker, fruiterer :
Hall, tailor : Taylor, cabinet maker ; corner of Castle street, public
house: Lang, tinman : Toms, umbrella maker : Glenn, shoemaker:
Gundy, bootmaker : Andrews, eating house : Gooch, baker : Lott,
Apothecaries' Hall : Upham, bookseller : Hennis, physician (killed
in a duel on Haldon) : Cole, ironmonger : Sercombe, baby linen
warehouse : Pilbrow, music shop : Tucker, grocer and draper :
11
Seward, laceman : Piper, perfumer : Lewis, West of England In-
surance Office; Holwell, draper: Woolmer, Gazette Office: Godfrey,
grocer : Hornsey (King's-alley), brushmaker : Johns, shoemaker :
White, (King-Lodge), ladies' school : Medland, haberdasher :
Truman and Llewellyn, drapers : Shapter, Dr., physician : Wippell,
ironmonger : Newcombe, glover : Collins, Dr., physician : Pye,
tobacconist : Nation, Humphreys, and Pye, warehousemen.
G-ANDY STREET. — Iron gates, open court, wide stone steps to
Mayor's banqueting room, now part of the Civet Cat, Mr. Grant :
Mayoralty Eoom opposite Mr. Harris : Granger and Sanders, wine
merchants : Luscombe, surgeon : Flindell, Luminary office : Hall of
Corporate Tailors.
HIGH STREET, — Eardley, china shop : George, hatter : Trewman,
printer: Laskey, hosiery: Coldridge, ironmonger : Chanter, passage,
greengrocer: Wilkinson, grocer : Strong, Swan passage, fruiterer:
entrance to fish, potatoe, and oat markets and Swan tavern : Snell,
milliner : Arden, draper : entrance to excise office : Treadwin, book-
seller : Wilcocks, woollen draper : Larkworthy, comb maker :
Pickard, hatter : Dyer, chemist : Newton, druggist : Sandford,
cabinet maker : Copp, draper : Lee, Savings' Bank : Gard, iron-
monger : Guildhall (front rebuilt 1593): Bartrum, tobacconist:
Eichards, Turk's Head : Eisdon, bookseller : Hart, hop and spirit
merchant • Ellis, silversmith : Wakley, china shop : Hedgeland,
bookseller : Hill, druggist : Harker, saddler : Chave, clothier :
Braund, di*aper : Floud, West of England Bank : Walker and
Trist, woollen drapers: Kingdon, S. and W., ironmongers: Hoi-
man and Ham, druggists. West of England Office, established
1807 : North street widened 1821 : Father Peter, originally about
six feet from the ground, placed in its present position when the
street was widened.
Eeturning to East Gate: — Collyns, D.D., Grammar School:
Pickett, Blue Boys' ditto, entrance to Cloth Mart Buildings, front
room, upstairs, Grammar School, ground floor: P. Eoberts, broker:
AVare, boot and shoe maker : Bustard, fruiterer : Parker, glazier :
Mullings, entrance school : Cook, saddler : Tucker, naturalist :
Johnson, optician : Du Chemin, carver and gilder : Jeffery, Three
Tuns : Toms, confectioner : Lake, Post Office Inn : passage leading
to Bedford street : Bates, perfumer : Hannah Pink, toyshop :
Halsey, draper : Eidge, tailor : Curson. bookseller : Toswill, carver
and gilder : Wood, shoemaker : Skinner, watchmaker : Townsend,
confectioner : Medland, Half Moon : Darke, butcher : Kingdon,
fringe maker : Carter, entrance judge's lodgings : Tonar, Irish
linen warehouse : Higgs, tailor : Tanner, chemist : Moxey, Step-
12
hen's bow : Strong, harness maker : Bishop's Barony House :
Vicker's, confectioner : Trehane, silversmith : Woodman, trunk-
maker : Jessie, toyshop : Woolcott, shoemaker : Colson, draper :
Luke, grocer: Ocock, confectioner: Lott, hatter: Adams, jeweller:
Martin's Gate removed 1820 : Drew, draper : Gould, grocer :
Maunder, shoemaker : Maunder, wine merchant : Sharland, grocer :
Davies and Phillpotts, tea -warehouse : Mayne, straw bonnet shop :
Butland, haberdasher : Beedle, chemist : Gollop, ironmonger :
Veysey, hatter: Sanders, entrance, -warehousemen: Veysey, hosier:
Phillips, glover: Hedgeland, bookseller: Tory, draper: Dunsford,
cutler: Dyer, bookseller: Dinneford, haberdasher: Pitman, draper:
Paul, grocer and cork cutter : Upham, hatter : Clark, milliner :
Broadgate, removed 28th December, 1824, re-opened 28th Feb-
ruary, 1825, during the time the "Defiance" and other coaches
passed through Martin's lane: Cox, seedsman: Lee, chemist:
Straight, milliner : St. Petrock's Church re- opened after being
nearly rebuilt, loth November, 1829 : Boucher, spirit merchant :
Eich, grocer : passage to Western Times Office : Kingdon, draper :
South street -widened 1830.
FORE STREET, — Knight, hosier, stairs leading to haberdasher's
room : Cross, now Lloyd, tobacconist, opposite middle of street -was
a conduit : Westron, wine merchant : Pitts, chemist : Mortimer,
cork-cutter : Dewdney, grocer : Kerslake, tinman : Dinham, grocer
and jeweller. (MiLK STREET, Butchers.— Branscombe, butcher.)
Passmore, draper : Tosswill and Holsgrove, grocers : Quicke,
butchers : Quicke, saddler. (Entrance to meat, corn, and leather
markets.) Balle, bookseller : Lowrey, straw hat shop : Mack,
stationer : Tapp, Plough Inn, lane leading to Butcher-row : Luke,
now Pearse, ironmonger : Taylor, frame-maker : Warren and
Landrey, booksellers : Street, baker : Evans, druggist : Lang,
clothes shop : Matthews, druggist : Ferris, tinman : Wilcocks,
draper : Townsend, fishhook-maker : Gay, glover : Sailer, Star
Hotel. (John's bow entrance.) SmallrJdge, china shop : Buckland,
baker : clothes shop : Paul, broker : Marks, silversmith. (Open
space, now Stephens.) Lendon, cheese-dealer : Pellew, broker :
' Strong, clothes' dealer : Avent, shoemaker: Ware, butcher: Devon-
port Inn : Hake, draper : Gitsham, grocer : Welsman, cheeseman:
Ezekiel, Jewish Kabbi : Lothian, Scotland House, drapers. (Pump
in street opposite above.)
BRIDGE STREET. — Pates, tailor : Bull, glassblower : Street,
druggist : Paul, broker : Pyne, babylinen : Williams, barber : Page,
spirit dealer : Stone, bookseller : Marks, brushmaker : Dale, hair-
dresser: Pinkstone, grocer: Hemmens, Bound Tree Mills: Worthy,
13
factory : Pinhey, brewer : Dymond, seed shop : Dymond, draper :
White, Pinhey, and Daw, City Brewery.
FORE STREET. — (Eight-hand side). — Norcombe, woollen draper :
Penny, bookseller: Clapp, ironmonger: Newman, grocer: Hutchings
draper : Kingdon, cabinet maker : Ezekiel, optician, &c. : Wilcocks,
draper : Wippell, grocer : Phillips, druggist : Buckland, draper :
Pearse, draper : Coldridge, ironmonger. (Entrance to Mary Arches
street.) Parsons, grocer : Bowditch, grocer : Ferris, silversmith :
Cottrell, lastmaker : Burnett, plumber : Tuckett, chandler :
Richards, cabinet maker : Holmes, Oat Sheaf Inn : Broom, watch-
maker : Cockram, pottery ware : Escott, saddler : Penn, druggist :
(Entrance to Mint lane.) Stabback, surgeon : Kingdon, surgeon :
Ford, confectioner : Godfrey, spirit merchant. (Entrance to
Friernhay street.) King Alfred Inn : Eadcliffe, baker : Toms,
chairmaker: Huxtable, builder: Weeks, currier : Marwood, broker:
Burt, curiosity shop : Blackmore, merchant, formerly town house of
Sir John Duntze : Hitchcock, grocer : Gray, railway pioneer : Gove,
Tucker's Hall, school : Cornish, builder : Cross, cabinet maker :
Lhnpenny, umbrella maker : Tucker, miller : Barker, chemist :
Stoneman, private house : (Entrance to Bartholomew street, W.)
BRIDGE STREET. — Westlake, grocer : Woosley, shoemaker :
Eames, stonemason : Buxton, currier : Goodridge, fringe shop :
Harris, milliner: Osborn, fishing-rod-maker: Ballman, shoemaker:
Odam, hairdresser : Nicholls, broker : Worthy, fuller : Curtis,
watchmaker : Crockett, wine merchant : Exe Bridge built 1776.
(With the exception of Mr. G. Wippell, ironmonger, 231, High
street, the writer has witnessed a change of firms in the whole of the
above, there are a few instances of sons succeeding their fathers).
EXETER MARKETS FIFT? YEARS SINCE.
Previous to the present markets being built the markets were
held in the High and Fore streets on Tuesdays and Fridays, the
latter being the largest : Six months on each side of the street.
Commencing at East gate with china and stone ware, glass and
Honiton pottery, &c., to King's alley; then butter, poultry and
dairy farm product to Goldsmith street. On great market days,
the last Friday in the month, this last produce was so great that
there was a double row, leaving scarcely room for carriages and
carts to pass each other. The grocers' shops* in the neighbourhood
were depositories for the country people's baskets : piles of from
twenty to thirty might be seen, and for this accommodation they
purchase what goods they require.
14
On a wet day it was a pitiful sight to see the parties standing in
the wet, sometimes the water running over their shoes, but most of
them were provided with pattens. I have seen during a storm the
baskets floating in the street. It was also a difficult thing to keep
the head and shoulders dry, the umbrellas were so numerous that
they dripped from one to the other, and the path was almost impas-
sable, it being like a moving forest of umbrellas, and many panes
of glass were broken by them. The lower squares of glass were
protected from the baskets and passers on Fridays by wire, iron,
or brass frames. The only three of the latter now remaining are
at Mr. Delves, chemist, corner of North street ; at Mr. Huston,
chemist, on the opposite side; and at Messrs. Wilcocks, tea
merchants, 104, Fore street.
Tradesmen's wives and house-keepers in those days would take
with them their servant, a respectably dressed woman, with a real
bonnet, cotton dress, and white apron without either parasol or
veil, and carrying two large basket*, it not being the custom to
send purchases home then.
From Goldsmith street to Broad gate was the pork butchers'
shambles with no covering over them ; at the centre arch of the
Guildhall were the public scales for weighing (provided by the
Chamber) under the superintendence of one of the staff-bearers.
The crook for their suspension is still in the arch. The part now
occupied by the superintendent and police officers was an open
space for the reception of various goods, also the stocks which were
used as a punishment for drunkards, instead of sending them to
prison ; the punishment was to sit in them one hour in front of the
Guildhall.
From Broadgate to North street, poultry, butter, &c. Thence to
Mary Arches street vegetables, fruit, flowers, &c. ; thence to the
Mint standings of leather goods, toys, tin goods, &c. ; thence to
middle of Fore street with boots and shoes, china ware, &c.
The butchers' meat market was on the site of the present entrance
to the lower market, also the seed and wheat market, the latter
being retailed by farmers to the public. Many families preferred
making their own bread, and would take the wheat to the millers
in the lower part of the city, and await their turn to have it ground,
having to pay a few pence, and also a small quantity of flour deducted
for waste At home the meal was put into a sieve, the long brush
put on the table, and by moving it to and fro the coarse bran was
separated from the flour ; the latter was made into dough by water
being added with a portion of yeast, and for the purpose of making
it rise or ''plum," they would put it in the bed, covering it over
with blankets, then take it to the bakers, knead it, put it into
various shaped tins, for loaves and cakes, and for the purpose of
recognizing their own, the top of the dough would be punctured
with a fork with their initials or a design.
The leather market was held in the lofts over the butchers', and
for skins in the market. The serge makers in St. Mary Major's
yard, opposite the Globe Hotel. A vegetable market was held
every day in the week, from North street to about Market street.
The fish, potato, and oat market, now Queen street, had an
entrance from Fore street for the people through a wide passage,
between two posts, just adjoining Mr. Wippell's. Behind his house
was the oat market, under a shed ; adjoining was a public pump,
then the fish houses — or in closed sheds, there being no dwellings
attached — with stalls in front, extending from about Mr. Broom's,
chemist, to Mr. Quick's ; then a shed across to the kerb in front of
the Queen's Hotel. Behind this to Paul street were gardens and
court-yards. On the site of Messrs. Scantlebury and Tapp, and
Mr. Stancombe's, another shed for potatoes. Then malt and brew
house of the celebrated Swan Tavern, which extended to about Mr.
Brown's, and over which was a large room, supported by four very
large wooaen pillars, extending to about halfway across Queen
street. This room was used for sales, panoramas, and fancy fairs,
&c., the entrance was from High street through Miss Strong's
passage, now the path adjoining Mr. Stiles. The above tavern was
noted for good home-brewed beer. It was a great resort at lunch
time for the tradesmen, who enjoyed their glass, with cakes,
oysters, or cockles; also a nightly resort to enjoy a pipe and song.
In this room, called the snuggery, was an old oak chair, elevated
about two feet from the ground. On the upper rim was painted
and gilded the words " God save the King." After the chairman
had formally taken his seat, any party on entering the room and
not taking his hat off, was politely told if he did not, his company
would not be agreeable. The entrance to the market for carts
was through Gaudy street, and Little Queen street, enclosed by high
wooden gates ; a fire engine was kept in the pathway in front
of what is now the Queen's Hotel entrance. The present office of
the Flying Post was an open space.
Before the improvements which the introduction of railways
effected, housekeepers might purchase a couple of fowls at from 2s. 3d.
to 2s. 9d. ; ducks, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. ; a goose; 4s. 3d. to 5s. 6d. ;
beef, 6£d. ; mutton, 4d. ; choice legs of pork, 5d. ; butter, 7d.
(dearest time lOd.) per Ib. ; eggs, 22 to 30 a shilling. Fish, equally
moderate, hake from 4d. to 6d. (now Is. 6d. to Is. 9d.) ; potatoes,
16
5d. per peck, heap measure. The Imperial Weight and Measure
Act came into operation January 1st, 1826, and there was much
discontent among the people about it, especially respecting
potatoes, buyers thinking they would not have so many, and sellers
having to buy scales and weights. I went into the market the first
time to witness the effect. The women would not buy them that
way, and threw the scales and weights aside. The sellers to prevent
a row sold as before, with the understanding that in future they
must purchase by weight. The following market day some Staff-
bearers being present prevented any disturbance, and in two or
three weeks all was amicably settled. Potatoes were also sold by
the bag, containing about eight score for 3s., and of such a quality
as is rarely to be met with now. The favourite kind was the
Moreton "red roughs," and well might they be said to be like balls of
flour, for when properly cooked it was difficult to prevent them, on
inserting a fork to take off their jackets, from falling to pieces.
Salt at this period, was considered the dearest commodity for
housekeepers, butchers, &c., it being 4£d. per Ib. The revenue
derived from it was about six millions. The duty was taken off
during the premiership of the Earl of Liverpool. One of the largest
retailers of it was Mr. Cross — (premises now occupied by Messrs.
Lloyd, tobacconists) — who devoted one side of the shop for its
sale, the other for snuff and tobacco.
Having given a description of the market held in the streets, I
will now give an idea of the extra influx of visitors, carriers, &c.,
on that day. The county families would come for the purpose of
shopping, also to meet their friends, and probably there were at
least in proportion fifty carriages, vehicles, &c., to five now; also of
carriers from the various towns and villages, fifty then to one now.
It was a lively scene, on any road entering the city, to see
the various traps and their occupants coming to the market. The
most frequented were the Cowley bridge road, coming from the
neighbourhood and the north of Devon. It was supposed that
about 3,000 persons came through the Eed Cow turnpike gate,
either riding or walking, on that day. This being the only entrance
from that part, St. David's hill and North street had their good
quota of business. At that time they had not the advantage of the
Iron Bridge (erected 1834) but were obliged to descend the steep
hill, and ascend North street, before getting into tbe city. Parties
coming from Stoke, Hew, Tiverton, &c., came over Marypole Head.
The road adjoining Cowley bridge, not being cut until 1829. Pre-
vious to Marypole Head road being cut, which was in 1814, Stoke
bill was the entrance from the above-named places. The New
17
London Inn had the greatest number of carriages, &c. I have seen
the yards full, and many in Longbrook street in front of the stables.
The Old London Inn (now Bude Haven), Clarence Hotel, and the
Half Moon also having a goodly number, each having yards in the
neighbourhood for horses and carriages. The Clarence and Half
Moon yards were on the site of the Savings' Bank and Bedford
Chapel.
The principal yards for carriers were the Black Lions', Mermaid,
Dolphin, White Hart, Plume of Feathers, Barnstaple Inn, Crown
and Sceptre, Bull Inn, and many others, in fact at all public houses,
where there was accommodation the yard and stables would be
filled with horses and vehicles of every description. The every-day
carriers' yard was crowded. Sheds were rented for the purpose of
receiving goods and parcels. The streets leading to many of these
yards and inns were equally as bustling as other parts of the city,
although now comparatively deserted.
The first market place for pork butchers was built on the site of
the present fish market, between Gandy and Goldsmith street ; the
potatoe market held over, it was opened on September 28th, 1827.
The materials were taken down on the present market being built,
and purchased by the late James Went worth Buller, Esq., of
Downes, who had it erected at Crediton.
The Lower Market was designed by Mr. Fowler, architect, as a
butchers' market, with the corn exchange in a large room over the
entrance; the Higher one for fish, poultry, butter, vegetables, &c.
The complaints were so numerous, from the inconvenience of pur-
chasers having to go from one to the other, that the Market
Committee were induced to remove the centre row of butchers'
stalls from the Lower, and place them in the Higher Market. It
is frequently remarked what a mistake in having two such buildings
for the purpose ; and as the present generation may not know the
reason, I will endeavour to explain it. The authorities having
decided to remove the markets from the streets, there arose the
question as to the site. (At this time it was of great consideration to
shopkeepers, the sellers being the wives and daughters of farmers,
who bought what they might require in the vicinity of their standing,
and who were hospitably treated, and in return tradesmen were wel-
comed at their country residences.) The tradesmen in High street
wishing to have it in their neighbourhood ; and those in Fore street
in the lower part of the city. Every influence was used for each
locality. After a long delay, the expenses being defrayed by
subscriptions, and no chance of being unanimous, the committee
proposed two separate buildings, which was adopted. The Lower
18
one was opened on Friday, 9th December, 1836; the Higher one,
July 24th, 1838. The Cattle Market which was more numerously
attended, and the stock a greater number than now, was held in
Bartholomew street. I have seen the cattle from the comer of North
street to Friernhay street, thence pens of sheep to the Baptist
Chapel, from thence to the bottom, near Fore street hill, and called
Pig Market, but now Lower Bartholomew stieet, pigs lying in
front of shops and dwelling houses. At this period a cow and calf
could be purchased for about eight guineas, the finest, twelve.
EXETEE FAIES IN 1820 AND 1873.
On seeing one solitary stall in Fore street on 10th December,
1873, it brought to my recollection the busy scene on fair days fifty
years ago. There were four held in the year ; the standings being
in the streets. Lent fair, generally held in March, was the smallest
in the year, principally stands for comfits, dolls, toys, &c. Another
about June, called Midsummer fair, the standings commencing at
Eastgate and reaching to Castle street, containing crockery ware,
glass, and ornaments, displayed on large crates; the coarser pottery,
mostly from Honiton, being distributed on the ground. From Castle
street to Musgrave's Alley, comfit stalls, &c. ; thence to the Guildhall,
cloth stalls, the covering hanging half way over the path. These
were supplied with materials made in the West of England and
Yorkshire, many of the parties having a depot in buildings now
the open space behind the Grammar School. From the Guildhall
to Mary Arches street, comfit standings, &c. ; thence to about half
way down Fore street hill, standings for tin goods, gloves, leather,
boots, shoes, &c. The latter principally manufactured at Crediton.
The lower part of the hill, standings with various goods. The streets
of a dry evening were almost impassable. The next fair was about
August, and called Lammas. This was the pleasure fair, commenc-
ing on the Tuesday, by a procession starting from Westgate,
consisting of the head constable, with a roll of parchment (tied with
blue ribbons), containing the Charter for holding the fair, which was
read aloud by him at the site of the old gates ; two staff bearers
accompanied him, with their three-cornered hats, also two fifers and
one drummer, followed by a man carrying a very long blue and
white pole, surmounted by flowers and an immense stuffed white
glove, and hundreds of children following. After the perambulation
19
the glove was mounted on the highest part of the Guildhall, until
the fair (which lasted three days) was over. The other fair was in
December, when the fat cattle were sent in for the Christmas mar-
kets. The cattle fair was held in Bartholomew street, commencing
at the Cemetery and extending as far as the Baptist Chapel,
Bartholomew street. The serge fair was held in South street. A
very large quantity of soap was sold at the Lammas fair at Eastgate,
housekeepers providing themselves with a year's consumption. The
leather fair was held over the old butchers' market. Once in the
year Whetstone fair was held in Waterbeer street, which was closed
by nine o'clock in the morning.
Shoe fair was held from London Inn square to Northernhay gate.
The hors et'air was on Southernhay, from Dix's field to the Barn-
field. Menageries, shows, booths, &c., stood on the upper green,
but were removed to the Bonhay and Exe Island, 13th August, 1823.
The Bonhay had previously been used as a rackfield for drying
serges, but the trade declining it was not required. The lower greeu
on Southernhay was occasionally made use of. I remember seeing
Wombwell's menagerie stationed just in front of the large trees
opposite the Hospital, which, from their appearance, I should suppose
were planted about the same time as those on Northernhaj" in 1612,
when the walk was made and 200 trees planted
In addition to business at fairs in the streets, the wholesale houses
did a large amount of trade, parties coming from all parts of the
county. The warehouses were lit up about five o'clock in the
morning, with candles in large candlesticks about two feet high ;
the stand being about the size of a desert plate, and large snuffers
to match. The firm, of which I have some knowledge, Messrs.
Nation, Humphreys, and Pye, 229, High street, have had as many
as thirty to breakfast at seven o'clock, and sixty to dinner from one
to two o'clock. The buyers having purchased all they required
during the morning, the afternoon was devoted by them to the tea
merchants, grocers, &c. During my apprenticeship, from various
causes, the fairs gradually diminished, and at last we only had one
party, who came from Hatherleigh. During the fairs all the ware-
housemen were provided with their meals, and a glass of grog after
dinner and in the evening.
B
20
ASSIZES IN EXETER ABOUT 1820.
Two Assizes were lield during the year, one in March, the other
in July. It was then attended by the principal families from all
parts of the county; the hotels were full, and the occupiers gener-
ally obliged to engage from twenty to thirty beds out of the house.
Lodging-house-keepers were written to a month previous, in order
to ensure apartments ; in fact, scarcely a bed was to be had, many
private house-keepers obliging the visitors during the week. I
have known the Assize last ten days — and even then some cases,
termed a remnant, put off till the following Assize. The largest
I remember was about seventy-two causes entered, many having
thirty to forty witnesses on each side ; more important cases frequently
about eighty witnesses. The average number of prisoners was
from seventy to eighty, but I have known one instance of 107.
The March Assizes were always the largest, as many more robberies
were committed in the winter nights than in the summer.
The Judges' lodgings were at Mr. Carter's, High street (now
Messrs. Green and Son's show room), which is considered the
handsomest room in Exeter. The Sheriff engaged private lodgings,
but had his Ordinary at the New London Inn, where the county
gentlemen dined -with him. There was always a ball during the
week, and many private parties.
About a fortnight previous to the Assizes there was a general
cleaning and painting of the shops and the outside of the houses,
and the newest things and goods obtained from London and other
places. Extra gas burners were put on and show rooms lit up in
the evening, the High street looked brilliant. The streets were
thronged with people, and an immense amount of business done
during the week. The theatre was opened and other attractive
amusements provided. Shops that received the Sheriff's orders for
the liveries and hats were visited to see the display, all being
provided at the Sheriff's expense.
The javelin men and keepers at the doors at the Castle, about
twenty-four in number, were generally the Sheriff's labourers, who
worked on his estate. They were paid a guinea for the week, and
the hat and suit of clothes at the termination of the yearly Assize
given them. In the present day men for that duty are selected from
21
the Devon Constabulary. On the day of commission the javelin
men assembled at Mr. Cook's, saddler, High street (now Dameral),
with their horses, to have their variegated saddle-cloths put on.
They then left with the noted Captain Cook, in a very quaint dress,
at their head, together with two trumpeters, to precede the Sheriff's
carriage, which went to meet the Judges. Following the carriage
were many of the tradesmen on horseback, and if the Sheriff
resided in the neighbourhood the tenantry would also attend. I
have seen nearly 200 present, and after the commission was broken
they went to the various Inns, where dinner, &c., was provided for
them at the expense of the Sheriff.
From Castle street to Heavitree, if the weather was fine, thousands
of people were waiting to see the procession. The Judges were
generally met about two miles out on the London road, where they
were robed, and then entered the stage carriage of the Sheriff, his
private carriage with four horses, containing the Judges' Marshall,
going on to the city. Sergeant Wylde travelled the circuit in his
own drag with four horses, his valet sitting behind, having pistols
in fur skin cases on each side. The learned sergeant lodged at Mr.
Bickard's, watch maker, East gate. A few of the barristers rode
the circuit on horsback ; and others clubbed together for their
conveyance, it not being etiquette to go by ordinary coaches. No
practising barrister was allowed to enter the Assize town]previous to
commission day. During the Assizes, Castle street was filled by a
moving mass of people going to and fro. The Castle yard and
City walls were promenades for the country visitors, Northernhay
for the city people, and in the evening some hundreds of children
may have been seen amusing themselves by running and sliding
down the slopes. At times their noise was so great that the Judges
ordered the attendants at the court to have it suppressed, as the
witnesses could not be heard. The prisoners were taken back by
an escort of four javelin men, chained together, and with heavy
geives suspended from the waist to the ancles. I have seen some
scarcely able to walk from the weight. Those accused of murder
were taken back heavily chained, by two javelin men and the
warder. The gates through the fields were unhung to allow the
prisoners to pass. On the Judges leaving the city on their way to
Cornwall, Captain Cook, on horseback, dressed in a scarlet coat,
cocked hat, and coloured breeches, would escort them through the
city to St. John's Cross.
The only party living connected with the Assizes of former years
is Mr. Pinney, the respected bandmaster of the Royal 1st Devon
Yeomanry Cavalry, who has been trumpeter since the year 1828 up
22
to the present time, with the exception of one year, when the
Messrs. Shapcott were appointed by the late J. Sillifant, Esq.
P.S. — I have been informed it was formerly the custom, should
a jury not agree upon a verdict previous to the Judge leaving the
city, to put them into a cart and convey them a little distance in the
country, and then upset the cart, when the jury came to the unan-
imous opinion they had been very badly treated.
COACHING IN EXETEE FIFTY YEAES AGO.
New London Inn kept by Mr. Clench, who succeeded Mr. Land,
1816. Average mails and coaches about seventy daily — Sundays
excepted. The mails all started from the " London." The London
mail — one direct (" The Quicksilver,") — which was said to be the
fastest in England, doing the distance in twenty hours, arriving in
Exeter about four o'Clock in the afternoon. Letters delivered about
six ; in winter, during fogs, letters not delivered until the following
morning. The other mail via Dorchester. One hour allowed for
sorting, then the Falmouth and Plymouth mails were dispatched.
On the 23rd of August, 1836, the speed was increased, the distance
being travelled in sixteen hours and a half. Several coaches also
left the Old London Inn (Mr. Pratt's) now Bude Haven Hotel, one,
the "Favorite" Subscription to London and Plymouth; also the
fast coach, " Defiance," to London from the Clarence Hotel, with a
team of four greys (which I have seen driven through St. Martin's
lane); also the "Balloon" and " Traveller" coaches, thirty hours
to London, licensed to carry six inside, and fourteen out, the fare
being less — 25s. outside, 35s in ; other coaches, 35s., and £3 10s. ;
mails extra. To insure places parties booked the day before, with
a deposit of half the fare. Gentlemen were so anxious for the box
seat that porters were fee'd to retain it for them. Coaches also left
the Half Moon, White Lion, White Horse, &c. It was computed
that in the parish of St. Sidwell's alone 3,000 persons derived their
maintenance in connection with the above occupations.
The Falmouth mails were of importance at that time, the foreign
letters, &c., being landed and forwarded from that port. Should a
packet arrive, and find the mails not leaving for London, the
heavy bags were at once forwarded by chaise and four horses, and
23
important Government despatches were forwarded by a messenger
on horseback, having always a relay in each town he had to pass
through. The contractor in Exeter was Mr. Mugford, Paul street,
yard adjoining Mr. Jury's Museum Hotel, now Queen street, where
man and horse were always ready by night and day, their destination
being Honiton up and Crockernwell down. The New London Inn
proprietor contracted for the posting — four horses always harnessed
and two post boys waiting for any emergency. On the debate on
the Sugar Duties in the Commons, 18 — , the West India packet
was delayed at Falmouth four days to take out the decision. The
bags were forwarded and despatched from Exeter at the usual time.
On Smith, the porter, going to lie down, (he slept in the outer
office) he acquainted the clerk, Mr. Rickard, of the presence of a
large portmanteau. On examination, it was found to be the des-
patches for the different foreign agents. The mail had left 4|- hours
previously. A man was immediately despatched on horseback to
have chaises and horses ready on the road to take the portmanteau,
Avhich arrived in Falmouth about half an hour after the packet left her
moorings. Not being out of sight a signal was hoisted, answered,
and the boat stopped. She put back and took the important over-
looked box on board. The heavy specie, consisting of dollars, &c.,
packed in very strong boxes, about one foot square, was sent from
Falmouth to London by Russell's waggon, which took twelve days,
a guard (Mr. Garry), armed, accompanying it. The boxes were
placed at the bottom with other goods on the top.
When about nine years of age I rode from South street in one of
the waggons. It left about eight o'Clock in the evening, arriving
in Honiton at four o'Clock, and was drawn by eight powerful horses,
the driver riding a small pony. I remember the waggon stopping
many times, and some small kegs being put in and taken out, which
I heard afterwards contained spirits, &c., brought across the lanes
by smugglers, whose horses had stockings over their shoes to
deaden the sound.
Previous to railways many gentlemen would take a trip to
London, Falmouth, Plymouth, &c., for the purpose of being allowed
to drive a portion of the journey; on one occasion a Devonshire
baronet took the reins of the Falmouth mail from the New London
square. On turning Mr. Franklin's corner, the wheels not clearing
the kerb, the coach was upset. Amongst the inside passengers was
the inspector of mails ; fortunately he was enabled to put his head
out on the right side, but from that time no one was allowed to
drive but the authorised coachman. Mr. T. Burch was also in the
coach at the time of the upset, but was not much injured.
24
The Bath and Bristol coaches (via Tiverton) ran by the old Stoke
road. The hill was so steep that the trustees allowed two extra
horses to be put on without extra toll, a post being erected at the
bottom of the hill and another at the top, with the words painted
thereon, "put on," " take off." In 1814 the road was made over
Marypole-head to avoid the steep hill ; and in 1829 the road was
cut from Cowley bridge to avoid the latter ascent. The same
privilege was also allowed to the Falmouth coaches, &o., just
above the Okehampton turnpike gate. The fish from Torquay, &c.,
for Bristol and Bath, was forwarded by coach, which left the London
Inn every evening about six o' Clock, drawn by six horses as far as
the mile stone — Marypole-head. Very few passengers travelled by
it, owing to the high flavour of the contents.
Three or four days previous to Christmas Day, the various London
coaches were loaded with hampers as presents, frequently four or
five feet on the roof. On one occasion a coach, driven by Beavis,
being top-heavy, overturned about midway between Exeter and
Salisbury. The coachman was killed on the spot, and a subscription
was started for his widow, between £800 and £900 being collected.
About twenty-six coaches passed through Heavitree daily. Pre-
suming the present generation never saw a mail coach, I will
endeavour to give an idea of it. The weight was about one ton,
painted red, with royal coat of arms on panel of door. They were
built to carry only four passengers in and four out, with a bag or
box for their luggage, the roof being reserved for large mail bags.
A round seat behind covered with a skin, and a pocket on each side
for pistols for the guard. The smaller country bags were put in the
boot under his seat, which was opened by a trap door. A long box
in front of the guard held a blunderbuss, whilst there was another
box or bag for the brass horn, which was about thirty inches long.
When heavily laden two extra horses, with postillion, were attached
to the mail. I have often heard the late Mr. Warren, attorney,
speak of the journey to London, which took three days from Exeter.
Four parties would take the inside of the coach, provide themselves
with lamp and cards, and play whist nearly the whole way.
For Plymouth the coach would leave Exeter at six in the
morning, stop at Chudleigh for the passengers to breakfast, when a
cock fight would be witnessed ; then on to Totnos to dinner, and
another cock fight would follow ; then start for Plymouth, arriving
there about six in the evening. The return journey was similarly
diversified. High street, in those days, was a busy scene, either
carriages, post chaises, or coaches every few minutes having to pass
25
through it, going east or west. In connection with the New London
Inn, there were in the stables from 150 to 200 horses daily.
Previous to the road being cut under Northernhay, the stables
and coach-houses extended from the London Inn back-door to Mr.
Jones's, wine merchant ; there were also stables the other side of
Longbrook street, and on Fridays, if fine, and anything particular
going on, they scarcely could find room for horses and carriages ;
also the same with other hotels and inns in the neighbourhood.
PARISH OF ST. STEPHEN, HIGH STEEET, EXETEE.
It may be interesting to many parties living in the above parish
to read of some of the old residents in it fifty years since. The
idea occurs to me, because the oldest tradesman in either High
street or Fore street is now living in the same premises of the
above parish, Mr. George Wippell, ironmonger, who succeeded Mr.
Sparks in 1824, consequently this year is the jubilee of his com-
mencing business, and also of his marriage. From my knowledge
of him, having lived for thirty-seven years within two doors of his
establishment, I can venture to say he was always willing to take
his part in vestry or other matters for the welfare of the parish.
In those days the parish was proverbial for its old and respectable
tradesmen, also for old assistants in shops and domestic servants.
Tradesmen then were more independent, not having such com-
petition to contend with as now. I have known many, on receiving
an order from the country, and not having the goods in stock, give
it to his neighbour, desiring him to execute it. It was the custom
in those days for several of the old parishioners, after their dinner,
to meet at the Half Moon Hotel, to enjoy their glass of grog, and
smoke Dutch cut tobacco in long clay pipes, returning to their
homes about four o'clock to receive their London letters. The
evening was spent in their family circle with either a game at
cards or music.
The next oldest parishioner is Mr. George Curson, bookseller,
&c., who was born in the parish, and succeeded his father. At
that time his was the most frequented newsroom in the city.
I will now give the then occupants and the present : — Mr. Curson,
being the first in the parish: next Mr. Paul, grocer, now Mr.
Drew, poulterer : Mr. Wood, shoemaker, now Mr. Browning, piano
and music seller : Mr. Skinner, silversmith, now Mrs. Anley, con-
fectioner, who was an assistant for many years with Mrs. Vickers in
26
the same parish : Mr. Townsend, confectioner, now Mr. Hawkins :
Half Moon, Mrs. Medland, now Mr. Gardner : Mr. Darke, butcher,
late Gosden ; Mr. Kingdon, fringe maker, late Heaven's : passage,
Mr. Elias Carter, entrance to judge's lodgings, now occupied by
Messrs. Green, and considered the handsomest room in the city :
Mr. Tonar, Irish linen warehouse, and Mr. Hackett, lithographer,
now Messrs. Green : Mr. Tanner, chemist, now Mr. Bulley : Mr.
Strong, harness maker, now Mrs. Hill, furrier, formerly the Bishop
of Exeter's Barony House : Mrs. Vickers, confectioner, now Miss
Fitze and Mr. Brewster: Mr. Trehane, silversmith, now Mr. Moore:
Mr. Woodman, trunkmaker, now Mr. Allen : Miss Jessie, toyshop,
now Abbay and Baker : Mr. "Woolcott, shoemaker, now Mr. Mallett :
Mr. Colson, draper, now Colson and Gates, previous to the death of
Mr. Colson he was the oldest tradesman in High street : Mr. Luke,
grocer, now Mr. Tucker : Mr. Ocock, baker, now Mrs. Stone : Mr.
Lott, hatter, now Miss George : Mr. Adams, silversmith, now South
Wales D. Bank : Messrs. Evans, straw bonnet maker, now part of
bank : Mr. Snell, tailor, now Mr. Wish : Mr, Linscott, Ship Inn,
now Mr. Yelland: Charlotte Bidgood, fruiterer, late Packham:
Mr. Stocker, hairdresser, now Mr. Algar. Thomas Granger, Esq.,
Musgrave Alley : Mr. Bruuskill, tailor, now Mr. Bale : Mr. Tucker,
grocer, now Mrs. Piper : Mr. Seaward, lace dealer, and Mr. Piper,
perfumer, now West of England Fire Company's offices : Mr.
Halsey, draper, now Mr. Eland : Shirley Woolmer, Gazette news-
paper proprietor, Mr. Godfrey, grocer, now Mr. Ford : Mr. Medland,
haberdasher, now Mrs. Mortimer ; Messrs. Trueman, and Llewellen,
drapers, now Mr. Dart: Mr. Wippell, ironmonger, same: Mr.
Newcombe, glover and breeches maker, now Mr. Pyne : Mr.
Collins, M.D., Mr. Pye, tobacconist, now Exeter and Plymouth
Gazette offices : Messrs. Nation, Humphrey, and Pye's warehouse,
now Mr. Anning's premises behind, extending to opposite Little
Queen street, used for making the celebrated Nation's snuff, part
of warehouse now occupied by Mr. Harris, accountant, his princi-
pal office being originally the Mayor's reception room, with panels
of dark oak, and some curious carved and inlaid wood, the mantel-
piece is also very antique (a sketch of which is to be seen in Mr.
Cotton's "Elizabethan Guild"), the room was restored some years
since by Mr. George Pye. The Mayor's state banqueting room is
now occupied by Mr. Grant, Civet Cat, the entrance being opposite
the above office, the approach being a stone court, and very wide
steps with railing. The room occupied by Mr. Ware, surveyor, has
a curious ceiling and mantel-piece ; the dwelling house is used for
offices, &c., by the proprietors of the Exeter Gazette, many rooms
27
having curious oak carvings. The machinery and printing depart-
ment was a garden. The premises are, I believe, the largest in the
High street, and the house one of the oldest. Mr. Tapscott,
shoemaker, resides where Mr. Gregory and Mr. Vanstone did. Mr.
Luscombe, surgeon (who embalmed the Duke of Kent, Her Majesty's
father), was offered the honour of knighthood, which he declined ;
he was then presented with two thousand guineas. His premises
are now occupied by Mr. Salter, wine merchant ; Mr. Bowden, now
Mrs. Sprague ; Mr. Bolt, now Mr. Steer ; King's alley, Mr. Johns,
shoemaker ; Rectory House, Mr. Dart ; Mr. Hellings, now Mrs.
Allen ; Mr. Hornsey, brushmaker, late Mr. Welsh, now Messrs.
Wippell's. King's Lodge \vas Mesdames White's ladies' boarding
school (many highly-respectable families sending their daughters
to be educated there from India), now Mr. Quicke's academy, his
father, also, having youths from India to educate — I remember
two, who knew no other home, and were with him for upwards of
twenty years each. Mr. Cossins, silversmith and parish clerk, and
Mr. Pridham, smith, Miss Langsford, milliner. Bedford street,
Mr. Hitt, shoemaker ; Mrs. Street, Clarence stables ; Mr. Pearce,
fly proprietor ; Mr. Snow, shopkeeper, now Mr. Mayne, bookseller;
Half Moon stables, with extra ground on the site, now Savings
Bank, and extending to Bedford Chapel. Carriages, &c., from the
Clarence stables, were left in the present roadway, no houses being
then built. Mr. Woodman, coachbuilder, now Mr. Sellers ; Thomas
and Betty Sprague, about fifty years sexton and sextoness in the
above parish ; and Mr. Westcombe, hairdresser, now Miss Tolley ;
Mr. Cousens, Militia-sergeant ; and Mr. Bowden, bellows-blower,
now brewhouse ; Mrs. Moxhay, now Mr. Pearse, Devonshire Arms.
I will give a few instances of old assistants and domestics connec-
ted with the parish. At present there are living with Mr. Wippell
two domestics, one whose service reaches forty-one years, and the
other twenty years, and J. Punsford, in shop, thirty-nine years.
Mr. Tucker, grocer, Pitts forty-six, Norris twenty-eight, and a
domestic died some time since who had been more than thirty
years in their employ. Mr. Head with Mr. Adams fifty-three,
Mr. Shorto from 1829 to Mr. A.'s declining business in 1852 —
twenty-three years. Mr. Titherley, with Mr. Lott, hatter, about
twenty. Mesdames Buxton, with Messrs. Colson and Sparks, just
forty years each ; also Miss Pinn and Mrs. Criddiford, nearly fifty
years. Mr. Stoceman, with Messrs. Kingdon, ironmongers, forty
years. — Pitts, with Mr. Kingdon, fringe maker, thirty years.
Gazette Office, many who first commenced as apprentices working
on in the capacity as journeymen until their death. Mr. Welsh,
28
with Mr. Hornsey, brushmaker, thirty years. Messrs. Pippet and
Northway, Mr. Medland, haberdasher, about forty years ; Martha
Wellsman, shop assistant, fifty years ; and two domestics about the
same time. Mr. Godwin, with Mr. Newcombe more than fifty.
— Bale, with Mr. Collins, M.D., thirty years; Arthur Vanstone
forty eight ; James Hellings forty ; and the writer of this, including
apprenticeship, thirty-seven years; domestics, fifty-seven, thirty-
two, and thirteen years each, with two men occasionally employed,
twenty-four years, so that, in the aggregate, eight parties lived
and were in the employ of Messrs. Pye for about 250 years. Mr.
and Mrs. Sprague with Messrs. Trewman, seventy years. Mr.
Gregory, with Messrs. Trimble about twenty-five years. Mr.
Bowden and two domestics, with T. Granger, Esq., about 110
years. Mr. Bolt and his son, with Messrs. Granger, Sanders and
Snow, wine merchants, about sixty years ; Mr. Banfill, clerk, fifty-
two years ; Mr. Thomas, clerk, fifty ; and four old cellarmen just
130 years — the eight being in the above firm 290 years.
Edmund Granger, Esq., Eougemont Castle, head of the above
firm, was put in nomination for the city representation 1802, the
result of the polling being, Buller, 786 ; Bampfylde, 637 ; Granger,
444. Thomas Granger, Esq., brother of the above, was a very
precise man, and had eccentric ideas, his principal occupation being
a daily ride, if possible, within a radius of three miles of the city,
on a very stout pony about 13 hands high ; instead of stirrups a
pair of gambados, made of very thick leather, to cover the hind
part of his legs and rest for the feet, a leather case for umbrella,
and a stick, which was in perpetual motion on the sides of the pony;
occasionally he would wear spurs. The late Thomas Sanders, Esq.,
asked him why he wore them, knowing they were of no use inside
the leather. He answered, " niy dear Tom, if I find the pony lazily
inclined, I get off, rub the spur against his side, then he goes on
like a thoroughbred." I may add that his pace was never out of a
walk. His pet animals at home were a number of guinea-pigs,
running about in his garden. His son, Dr. Granger, resided in
the same house until his death. Dr. Shapter commenced his
practice in this parish, having apartments at Mr. Wippell's.
P.S. — Some of the above mentioned old domestics, from their
long servitude in the same families, almost forgot their own sur-
names, they were called Mary Pye, Betty Granger, Susan Tucker,
&c., after the families they lived with. Having related in the
beginning of my letter the independence of tradesmen in former
days, I will give two instances. A gentleman seeing a pair of
silver candlesticks in the window of Mr. Skinner, enquired the
29
price ; after a little conversation he said he did not care about
selling them, because he must get another pair. The c-ther case
was at Mr. Ferris's, jeweller. Three tradesmen's daughters went in
to enquire the price of a chain. Mrs. Ferris, a very stately old
dame, walked out from the room behind, and said, " Well, what
do you girls waut?" " Please tell us the price of that chain." " Get
along with you," was her reply, " what can girls like you want of
a chain ? I shan't tell you, and if you come again disturbing me in
my tea-time I will find out who you are, and tell your mother of
your doings." In the window of the above-mentioned was often to
be seen a large cat, lying on the jewellery.
FIEST, OE EAST DEVON MILITIA, ABOUT 1826.
At this time tLo different parishes had to give their quota of men.
Lists of those eligible were put on the church doors, exemptions
being over age (35 years), family of more than four children, and
apprentices. Those that were from other causes exempt had to
give their reasons, such as illness, lameness, or too short, &c., which
list was also placed on the doors. The tradesmen and others
subscribed to a fund 10s. each, to provide substitutes should any
of them be drawn. The drawing was done by putting the name on
a slip of paper into a bag or hat. The first names taken out were
the ones to serve during the various periods of drilling, or any
emergency. Substitutes generally received about £10 ; during the
war as much as £30 were given. The surplus money from the
fund was returned to the subscribers. The regiment consisted of
eight companies of 100 each, under the command of Colonel Lord
Ebrington (the late Earl Fortescue), Lieutenant- Colonel Fulford,
seur., Fulford House, Dunsford, and Adjutant Captain Holman.
When called out they were drilled in the Castle yard, being billetted
at the various hotels and public-houses in the city and neighbour-
hood. Each company was drilled by the sergeants on the staff,
who were small tradesmen. They were called out in the summer,
between the hay and corn harvests. The bugles were sounded at
five o'clock, muster at six, two hours drill, then rations served out
to them (bread and meat), which they stack on their bayonets and
carried through the streets. There were two other drills during
the day. At nine o'clock at night the fifes and drums would beat
the tat-too through the streets, accompanied by hundreds of people,
leaving the London Inn Square, and going to Exe Bridge and back.
The officers' mess was generally at the Half Moon. The young
fifers and drummers were tutored in the mornings in the field under
the goal — at that time there was no carriage way, being a succession
of church-path fields from Barrack lane to St. David's Church, the
only residence in that neighbourhood being Woodbine Villa, now
the residence of Mr. H. Sellers. The dress was very different from
the present; the jacket red, with very short tails, black trousers,
with gaiters, and a very stiff black stock, a stiff round felt hat with
a square front and two white tassels hanging by the side — with
the exception of the first company, who were picked out for their
height, named Grenadiers, who wore fur caps the shape of a
Bishop's mitre ; the eighth company were the smallest men, named
Light Company and wore green tassels.
In full marching order the advance were two men, about 400
yards in front of the regiment, at a certain distance four more, then
a sergeant's guard of ten. In front of the band were about ten
men called pioneers, or " awkward squad," with their leather bands
round the waist and over the shoulders, carrying a pickaxe, saw,
hammer, &c., which were to be used should there be any impedi-
ment in preventing the regiment from passing.
One of the officers informed me that the longest march he had
was from Yorkshire, which they did in three weeks, and came into
the city very little worse for the distance The Devonshire Militia
was considered to be able to stand more fatigue than any other in
the kingdom. The average height of the men was 5 ft. 7 in., 'and
they had very broad shoulders, so much so that they took more
space for the same number than any other regiment. The Lan-
cashire Militia were the tallest, average height 5 ft. 10 in.
Regiments marching in those days through Exeter were billetted
at the various hotels and inns. At five o'clock the bugles were
sounded to muster, at six leave for the next town, then breakfast,
remain the day, and march next morning, Sunday excepted. The
baggage followed, guarded, women and children on the top, also
soldiers invalided. The advance men with the route on the previous
day would stop any waggons or carts in the streets, take their
names and residences, giving them orders what to do, and if not
complied with, any extra expenses they were obliged to pay.
There being no cavalry barracks below Exeter, only foot regiments
passed through. The accoutrements were kept in a similar build-
ing to the one now occupied by the Warder of the Castle, on the
opposite side. On Sunday mornings the sergeants and band
assembled at ten o'clock, and marched to the Cathedral, under the
command of Sergeant-Major Salter ; the band under Drum-Major
31
Clark, leader Mr. Ronchetti ; route down Castle street, High street,
Martin's lane, across the Cathedral yard to the North door, which
was open for this purpose. After the service the men returned to
their homes. The other Devonshire regiments were the 2nd, or
South Devon, head-quarters Plymouth; and the 3rd, or North
Devon, head-quarters Barnstaple. ' Some years since 'the latter
regiment was formed into an Artillery corps, doing garrison duty at
Plymouth.
Previous to the termination of the war in 1815, the East Devon
did duty in Ireland. On returning a very heavy gale came on, and
the ship was on the point of foundering ; however, she weathered
the storm, and the regiment returned to old " Semper Fidelis,"
much to the joy of relations and friends. I presume that the only
officer, or man, in the East Devon during the last century now
living is Captain Hugh Cumming, he having joined 1798, during
the Irish rebellion, being then 15 years of age. Mr. Pinney (Band-
master of the Ymmanry) joined the staff in June, 1824, and he is,
I believe, the only one living belonging to the staff at that time.
OFFICERS OF THE EAST DEVON MILITIA, 1820. — Colonel, Lord
Ebrington, Lieut.-Colonel, B. Fulford ; Major, J. Pitman ; Captains,
Courtenay, Treby, Marsh, Clark, Savile, Carpenter, Hamlyn, Hon.
N. Fellows ; Lieutenants, Crowther. Sanderson, Ellicott, Martin,
Whittaker, O'Brien, Kingdon, Dewdney ; Ensigns, Cornish, Pons-
ford, Campbell, Lloyd, Lardner, Pearse, Farrant ; Adjutant,
Captain Huhiuui.
REMINISCENCES OF EXETER.
On Tuesday, two days previous to Ascension Day, the Mayor
and members of the Chamber, accompanied by the blue coat boys
belonging to St. John's Hospital, perambulated the city bounds ; a
boat was provided near the lime kilns in which a staff bearer and
some of the elder boys with their captain embarked, skirting the
Quay, and on passing the vessels they were drenched with buckets
of water, thrown over them by the sailors. At this time ships
were more numerous than now, generally from twelve to twenty.
At times the bath was not relished, but a cheer now and then made
it pass off good-humouredly. On their attempting to land on the
rack field, the boat sometimes would be upset and all got immersed.
Having reached "terra firma" they proceeded to Exe bridge,
where one portion of the party went up the Bonhay, the other
32
through Exwick fields, meeting at the Cowley bridge Inn, where
a good breakfast was provided ; also one for the boys, after some of
them had swam across the river, for which some silver money was
given them. After this repast they ascended the hill to Marypole-
head, arriving home about one o'clock, when their best clothes
were put on, and each being decorated with a blue rosette, they
were accompanied by their captain down the High street, cheering
on their way, to a good substantial dinner provided for them at the
Market House Inn, then situated in the Old Butcher's Market.
This day was considered by the boys the greatest red letter day of
the year.
Ascension Day, a general holidays for school boys, who peram-
bulated the boundaries of their parish, accompanied by the Clergy-
man, wardens, and parishioners, who on their return gave the boys
rolls, cheese, and ale — many of them would be quite saturated
with water, which was thrown over them from windows, roofs, and
other available places, it being the custom to do so. The fun was
enjoyed by all. Ponds were made in the gutters, and unless pence
were thrown in parties were splashed with dirty water ; and such
was the dread of this custom, that people did not come into the
city unless business compelled them. The parishioners had a
dinner at an hotel or inn in the parish, enjoying a few convivial
hours with each other, the clergyman, generally, as chairman.
Boys would assemble outside the window, when pence would be
thrown out for a scramble, sometimes after being made hot.
May 29th, large branches of oak trees were placed at tradesmen's
doors and windows in commemoration of King Charles II. In the
evening boys would go round and beg for the branches, and make
alcoves with them in different parts of the city. At night they were
illuminated with candles, for which the lookers-on would give the
occupiers some pence. During the day the Cathedral and other
parish bells would be rung, and boys and girls would wear gilded
oak apples and leaves.
In the first week in May droves of calves for rearing were con- '
stantly passing through the streets in numbers of one hundred and
upwards, (the bleating noise may be imagined). Most of them
coming from Dorset, they were called the "Dorsetshire Militia'*;
the carcases of younger ones were brought down in light spring
waggons, the veal being sold from 4d. to 5d. per Ib. ; the head
10d., the henge, consisting of liver, lights, heart, and sweetbread
Is. 3d.
Pair horse post chaises to accommodate two persons, the driver
sitting on a cross bar about six inches in width, always wearing
33
top boots ; there being sufficient space between the two wheels
behind, two or three boys would get up and ride until dis-
turbed by a lash from the driver's whip. Ladies in wet weather
wearing pattens, the ears being generally of a red colour, nicely
bound, tied with coloured ribbon according to taste. The lower
part of the dress pulled through their pocket hole ; middle class
females similar to the above style, but with the addition of a very
large strong pocket, capable of putting a couple of rabbits in, and
which was used instead of the present spice and workboxes, its
contents being a grater, ginger, nutmeg, mace, cloves, nobs of
sugar, and a screw of tea ; also scissors, keys, bodkin, needles, pins,
tape, sealing-wax, &c. Bonnets were in fashion in those days,
made of a rich cream-coloured straw, called Tuscan and Leghorn ;
shape crown about six inches high, tied under the chin, covering
the ears and the front from twelve to sixteen inches, which acted
as a sunshade and fan. Parasols were used only by the gentry,
tradesmen being very tenacious about their daughters carrying one,
considering it was inconsistent in their station of life. Veils also
came under the same category. Fashions and ideas change in
a few years; now servants imitate their superiors in dress. I
remember when they wore good plain print dresses, white aprons,
find mob caps —no bonnets. They went shopping in this style,
and took their purchases home with them. In the mornings they
did their work in short sleeves, and drilled the mops on their arms.
They also kept their situations, almost as many years as weeks
now, receiving for their services from five to eight pounds per year.
Recruiting for the army : sergeants, corporals, and privates of
different regiments with fifes and drums paraded the streets ou
market days. On seeing any likely recruits the soldiers would
leave the ranks and partially exchange clothes with them, walk off
arm in arm, and on the return to the rendezvous the recruit would
make choice of his regiment, take the enlistment shilling, drink to
His or Her Majesty's health, and felt proud of being a loyal
defender of his country.
Service in the outer aisle of the Cathedral in aid of the Society
for Promoting Christian Knowledge, when about o,000 boys and
girls attended from various schools in the city and neighbourhood.
It took many days preparing, the side aisles were fitted up in tiers,
with strong thick planks. The centre also with boards for the
general congregation, which consisted largely of tlio gentry of th,*
city and neighbourhood — in fact it was one of the days of note, so
many families coining int-.j town. Tlie children sang during the
service the sixteenth psalm, also the Old Hundredth. Three or four
C
34
evenings previous to the above, the children would assemble about
four o'clock for a rehearsal, the conductor being either Mr. Cole or
Mr. Bisdon. Plates were held at the doors for donations, the
average being from eighty to ninety pounds. In 1836 the collection
after a sermon by the Rev. J. D. Coleridge, amounted to £116 16s.
lOjd. ; the Duke and Duchess of St. Alban's being in the city held
two of the plates.
At seven o'clock on Christmas Day, previous to the morning
prayers, the organ played the Old Hundredth Psalm — the choris-
ter boys singing it in the Minstrel Gallery, being provided with
candles. Hundreds of people attended, but the unruly conduct of
parties who had accompanied the various choirs during the night
singing anthems and carols (which was very general then), the
Dean and Chapter ceased to have it done in the outer aisle.
Maundy Thursday : after service, " Peter's Pence " were given to
children, distributed by the vergers, standing at the door under the
north tower ; the exit being the entrance near Southernhay, giving
the alert ones time to come round again. The confusion and noise
was so great, the vergers were desired to throw the pence in the
yard for a general scramble, which excited much amusement to
lookers-on. This custom ceased many years since.
Previous to the duty being taken off advertisements, parties gave
their ideas and opinions by chalking it on shutters, more particularly
on the eve of a contested election, Saturday nights being more
general that it might be seen the following day. Captain Cook's
bulletin was also eagerly looked for. The old Corporation on gala
days walking in procession ; in front about twenty-six constables,
who Avere tradesmen selected from the different wards, with Mr.
Turner, silversmith, captain, Mr. Cuthbertson, deputy-captain ;
then followed the different corporate trades with their banners, four
staff-bearers, wearing three-cornered hats, with a quaint loose
dress, walking with their long six feet staves, mounted in brass
with a large ball on the top, then four mace-bearers, sword-bearer,
mayor and aldermen in scarlet robes, with three-cornered hats,
gentlemen in plain clothes, being members of the chamber, followed
by three tradesmen's sons, named mayor's stewards, wearing black
gowns with various tufts on them, the outer one being known as the
gutter steward. As the above always walked in the pathway, all
temporary obstructions were removed.
Going to London on pleasure in the thirty hours' old coaching
days was considered a great event, parties going round to acquaint
their friends and offering to take parcels &c,, very frequently to
their own annoyance and inconvenience on their arrival in town. I
35
will give two instances out of many : a gentlemen, willing to'oblige
his lady friends, had about a dozen parcels sent to him, containing
butter and cream, and having promised to deliver it personally it
took himabout three days to deliver his charge. On his return home
he desired his friends not to mention when he was going to London
again. The other was a tradesman, on his first visit to the
metropolis who thinking it was a little larger than Exeter, and that
he would be enabled to deliver them in a day or two, found it
occupied him almost the fortnight of his stay. On his return home
he said the parcels and letters occupied nearly the whole of his
time in delivery, and therefore could scarcely see anything worth
relating, so "next time I go — no more parcels."
Visitors arriving from London — the great dread was the unin-
vited ones, viz., "Norfolk Howards," of which at this time every
house in London was supposed to have more than agreeable, and
to avoid any importation of the above-named, trunks, boxes, &c.
were taken to the rear of the premises, opened and examined
previous to anything being taken to bedrooms, and, if necessary,
underwent the process of fumigating witli brimstone.
On market days, a jolly farmer on a good substantial broad-back
horse, with his wife — in those days called "dame" — sitting on a
pillion behind him, with arm round his waist, bringing with them
produce of their dairy and poultry yard ; and as time was not so
important as now, the pace was about three miles an hour. They
also provided themselves with an immense sized gingham, for
protection from rain, sun, and dust; and for the purpose of mount-
ing, lifting steps were erected at most inns, either in the yard or
near the door. The above style of riding was not exclusively
adopted by farmers, but frequently a smart-dressed groom on a
spirited horse, with a wide leather band around his waist, with a
loop behind for the lady to hold, was seen going through the streets ;
also in the country on a Sunday going to church, where steps were
provided at the entrance for dismounting. At this time very few
vehicles were in use or fashion on market days. Most of the produce
of a farmer was brought in on the back of a horse, with a pannier
on each side, with man or woman riding behind. A retired trades-
man, about sixty, informed me that he was the first party who left
Exeter in a gig for his journey to solicit orders for his firm —
travellers then going by coach, or on horseback with saddle-bags.
The representative of a firm that I had some knowledge about, took
just three weeks from hence through Cornwall and back.
36
EXECUTIONS IN DEVONSHIRE SINCE 1794.
AVm. Mart in borough (a black), was the first man executed at the
now drop after the erection of the new Gaol in 1794, for murder.
Since that time (including him) there have been seventy-eight
executed, just an average of one a year — twenty-eight for murder,
three for administering poison, the others for various offences. In
1800 (April 6th), seven were hung, none of them for murder. One
more would have been added to the seventy-eight, viz., Edward
Galley, who was convicted with Thos. Oliver alias Buckingham Joe,
for the murder of Mr. May in 183G. The old law was that the
condemned should be hung within forty-eight hours after their
sentence, but the act for prolonging the time came down the-
previous night. The late J. Carew, Esq., having heard the trial,
was quite convinced that Galley Ava? not guilty, and after an
immense deal of trouble and communication with the Home Secre-
tary, the culprit was reprieved and sent to the convict establishment
at Woolwich, and eventually discharged. Oliver, at the trial,
denied that Galley was an accomplice and repeated his denial 011
the gallows. A white pocket handkerchief was given to the
culprits to be dropped previous to the bolt being withdrawn.
Oliver insisted on using his own, a red one. This was supposed to
be a signal to his acquaintances in the crowd that he had not
divulged the secret.
Previous to the remodelling of the prisons by J. Hayward, Esq.,
architect, there were two distinct establishments, the Gaol and the
Bridewell, the entrance to the former being near the present Con-
stabulary building. The Bridewell was the present entrance to
the prison. The drop was at first over the Gaol, and was removed
to the gateway at the Bridewell. The first executed there was
George Sparks, in 1835 ; the last person executed in the precincts
of the Gaol was J. Landick in 1849. Included in the above seventy-
eight, one culprit was from, the city, viz., Samuel Homeyard, for
forgery, in 1818, who was executed at Magdalen temporary drop,
the last execution there previously to this being thirty-two years
before. The foundation stone of Bridewell was laid by S. F.
Milford, Esq., 22nd August, 1807. Before the goal was built the
executions for the county were held at Ringwell, about two miles
on the London road. On one occasion there were six hanged— four
men and two women. They were taken through Heavitree in carts,
each sitting on a coffin. After they were cut down, they were buried
near the same spot.
37
I \vill now contrast the excitement which, according to my earliest
recollection, attended former executions, -with executions of the
present time. Formerly, as early as six o'clock in the morning,
hundreds of people would be on Northernhay and in front of the
gaol, and from that time until twelve o'clock, the streets were filled
by a moving mass of people, coming from the country in every kind
of conveyance available, principally two-horse waggons and carts,
as if they were going to an Agricultural Show or races. I have
heard some of them say they left their homes at midnight. Just
before twelve o'clock every spot within view of the gallows was
crowded with spectators. At that time there were fields in front of
the goal, and no road or railway. All prisoners, if possible, witnessed
the execution. In the High street, at twelve o'clock, scarcely a
person was to be seen, the respectable people keeping in-doors, and
none, if possible, coming into the city on that day. After
the body was cut down the streets were all bustle again. In the
case of a murderer the body was given to the Hospital for the pur-
pose of dissection, and was conve}red there in a cart in the afternoon,
and placed in the dead house, for the inspection of those who had
a morbid taste.
Since the executions have been within the precints of the gaol,
the excitement has almost ceased, a black flag hung over the gateway
being the only outside indication of the last penalty of the law
having been carried out. Let me add a brief description as to how
the public got their information previous to the stamp duty being
taken off newspapers. The Assizes then being looked forward to
with anxiety and interest, the printers would ascertain the names of
prisoners and crimes about two days previous to the commission
day ; these were printed on a piece of paper at the price of half-
penny each, and men, women, and youths went through the city
with the continual cry of " The Calendar of the Prisoners," and an
immense number were bought, especially by the country people.
The same type was made available at the close of the Assize, with
the addition of the various sentences. T have seen about thirty to
forty people waiting outside the printer's for the list, and when
obtained they would rush through the streets calling out "Sentences
of all the Prisoners ; " others would go to the neighbouring towns
and villages, each trying to be there first by running. On the
occasion of an execution the same sized bill would be printed, with
a supposed portrait on the top suspended to a gallows. The previous
evening the print jr would ascertain from the authorities if they had
received a reprieve (the mails arriving in Exeter about four o'clock
in the afternoon) ; if not, a brief description of the murder was
38
printed, with the convict's supposed dying words, or confession,
generally concluding with "he died without a struggle," "he was
launched into eternity," " a convulsion of the nerves for about two
minutes," or "he confessed his guilt," such was the information
eagerly bought. I will leave the reader to guess how the news
was conveyed previous to telegraph wires and railways, for within
five minutes of the execution the account was in most of the towns
and villages within eight miles of Exeter.
I remember when two men were hung, 24th August, 1827, for a
burglary at Tiverton, hearing a then well-known blind fiddler
calling out the last dying speech previous to the bolts being with-
drawn. The boy who led him about gave him a jerk, saying " They
b'eant off 't ! " ] account for this premature announcement from
the fact that previous to the culprits ascending the scaffold the
noise and buzz of voices quite filled the air, but at the first stroke
of the shrill clock the silence was like that of midnight, and the
blind man, hearing a sound at a distance, supposed, to use the
general term, that "they were turned off." However, he had not
long to wait, and the contents of his well-filled pockets were soon
disposed of to the surrounding crowd. After a carousal, the
country people returned to their various destinations in the
evening, the city resuming its general quietude.
The foundation stone of the City Prison was laid by C. Brake,
Esq., June 4th, 1818, in the mayoralty of T. Floud, Esq.
RECOLLECTIONS OF OLD EXETEE.
According to promise I now send you some further remarks on
the various improvements that have been made in Exeter within a
few years. The best of them is Queen street and road. Previous
to this there was only a narrow passage, with tvco upright posts from
High street, for persons going to the fish, potatoe, and oat markets.
The cart traffic was through Gfandy and Little Queen streets.
Two houses occupied by Mr. Knott, chemist, and Mrs. Higgs,
milliner, were taken down, also the front room belonging to the
Swan Tavern, this room being principally occupied by musicians
when any exhibition or panoramas were being shown in the large
room behind. In the rear of the demolished houses was an open
space extending to the potatoe market, in a line with what is now
the Queen's Hotel. The oat market was in a line with Mr.
Wippell's, mei'cer. On the site of the market were houses, shops,
and yards, with frontage in Goldsmith street. This market was
39
opened 24th July, 1838. The old post office site was occupied by
Messrs. Tucker, cabinet maker, for a timber yard ; adjoining this
was FLLndell's Luminary office, now Mr. Smith's music repository.
Premises now occupied by Mr. Godbeer, coach builder, Mr. Dingle,
cabinet maker, and Messrs. Harding, Eichards, and Thomas, wine
and spirit merchants, was a court, the entrance to the upper school-
room for the Episcopal Charity boys, which school was founded by
Bishop Blackall, 1708— Messrs. Geare and Tozer's office was the
master's residence
The principal entrance to Paul street was from North street,
being then mostly private houses occupied by many professional
men. In this street was one of the most respectable schools in the
city, Mr. Trueman, master. These premises are now occupied by
Mr. H. Elmore of the South Western Hotel, who has a relict of the
boys' school days — a door whose surface has names or devices cut
on it. In front of the house were posts and chains in a line with
the present kerb. The Museum Hotel, kept by Mr. G. Jury, was
the private residence of J. Pidsley, Esq., with outhouses and garden
behind, extending to the Dispensary and city walls, which crossed
here in a line with the Castle. The road in front of the Museum
Hotel was an entrance to Mugford's livery stables, and there men
and horses were waiting day and night to convey light despatches
for the Government. On the site of the handsome building, the
Albert Museum and Free Library, was a lot of very old houses
having an entrance from Paul street.
Opposite the city prison, now the carriage road to the South
Western Station, was a rough piece of ground with a shed on it, used
for breaking stones and beating carpets. On this spot, during the
Royal Agricultural Society's visit in 1850, a large marquee was
erected for the dinner under the catering of the noted cook "Soyer.'
The baron of beef was roasted in the Castle yard by gas heat, from
thence it was carried on men's shoulders, with a band in front,
under the leadership of Mr. Pinney, playing the tune —
" The roast beef of old England."
Queen street, beyond the prison, was fields, gardens and orchards.
On cutting the road in 1833 by the turnpike trustees from Belmont,
Cowley road, to the back of the New London Inn, it was suggested
that a road could be made into the centre of High street by filling
in the valley and covering the drain. It was done, and is now one
of the prettiest entrances into the city. Perhaps at some future
time, another great improvement may be accomplished, by remov-
ing the unsightly boards, and planting a few trees on each side.
The Magdalen bridge is also another great improvement, the
40
original road being a deep descent nearly on a level with the under
supports of the present bridge, with small houses on each side ; the
ascent was steeper with a hedge about thirty feet on the right, a
little less on the other side. Messrs. Hooper having purchased
most of the property from Sir Thomas Baring, in 1825, for the
purpose of building on the site now known as Mount Badford, it
was considered necessary to have a good approach to it. The bridge
plan having met with the approval of the Commissioners of
Improvement, it was carried out at a cost I believe of about
£4,000. There were no public road then through the Barntield
estate. In 1827 Lower JSouthernhay road was widened. Paris
street, the original road, being straight down and up the hill in
front of Lower Suninierlfmds. In the old coaching days, when
approaching the bottom of Paris street, the coachman slackened
reins, and with a smack of the whip and the impetus, the
horses were enabled to pull the coach to the summit of the
hill at a stretched gallop. The present road was cut through
Mr. Sweetland's dairy-house, yard, and fruit gardens. This
alteration I believe was proposed by Mr. J. Clench on his first
taking his seat as a commissioner. The site of Mr. Sclater's
Alexandra Nursery was a rough piece of ground with a very
dilapidated hedge. The recent improvements, openings, and clean-
ly appearance, also the view of the "Ever Faithful," including the
majestic Cathedral, church towers, spires, hospital, and the stately
trees on Northernhay, with the Whitstone and Haldon hills in the
distance, makes this a very pretty drive or walk into the city.
The whole of St. SidwelPs has been very much altered in
appearance, and a great many small, low built private dwellings
with thatched roofs having been taken down. From Summer-
land street there was no direct outlet, only a very narrow rough
pathway to the various houses. Newtown and neighbourhood were
open fields. The road leading to Hill's court was fields, with
only a narrow path inside the hedges for pedestrians. The road in
front of Park and Eldon places was very narrow, the trees almost
overhanging the thoroughfare. If those parties who consider
Exeter slow in its improvements could have seen the ancient city
in the days of the above attempted description, they would exclaim
What a wonderful transformation !
41
NEWS NOW AND THEN.
The saying that news flies is daily verified. I will mention one
instance. On Saturday last the summing-up of the Lord Chief
Justice in the Tichborne case, and the concurrence of the other
two judges, came to a close about 12.10 ; the jury returned their
verdict in about half-an-hour ; sentence was passed, and we received
the news in this city about live minutes before one.
My object is to give an idea to the present generation of our
receiving news previous to the railway and telegraph communications.
The probability is we should not have heard the result then until
Monday morning, unless we had verbal information from a passenger,
or the guard of the mail, on Sunday afternoon about four o'clock.
No letters were delivered on that day, but parties having a box
at the office could, on application, after the Plymouth and Falmouth
mails were despatched, obtain them, for which accommodation one
guinea a year was paid. Newspapers then were fivepence each.
The principal inns took in a paper each, which was read aloud to
the compan}7 at eight o'clock, the contents being anxiously awaited.
On any important occasion and when there was likely to bo a
r division in the House of Lords or Commons, the inhabitants
would await the arrival of the "Telegraph" coach, which left
London at five o'clock in the morning, arriving in Exeter at ten
o'clock to a minute. The guard generally had a newspaper, which
he would lend to any respectable person he knew, who would read
it aloud to the people, and if any strong partizan feeling was
aroused, this would often terminate in a severe skirmish.
When the division was not known at night, the noted Captain
John Cook would walk towards Heavitree to meet the "Balloon"
or " Traveller" coach (which was due at the Clarence Hotel about
eight in the morning) to ascertain the result, and, if favourable to
his views, would chalk the number round his hat, stand on the top
of the coach, and wave it to his friends who were waiting to receive
intelligence. On descending from the coach he would go over to
Moll's coffee house, Cathedral yard, which was the Club for the
county and city gentlemen, leaving particulars of the news.
At the entrance to the room, there were seats in the doorway,
which brings to my memory four constant visitors — Capt. Hugh
Cuuimings, who I believe is the only member of that Club living ;
Eichard Eales, Esq., solicitor, of Eastdon ; George Hirtzel, Esq.,
wine merchant, who was always noted for his ready wifc ; and also
the late Charles Sanders, Esq., banker, a good specimen of the old
42
English gentleman. Mr. Sanders always wore a wide-brim hat,
Newmarket cut coat, drab waistcoat, breeches and gaiters, and a
neat white necktie. He would stand outside, with his hands in
his pockets, the right one ready to be withdrawn to grasp a friend,
his other hand with a coin in it ready for any poor or deserving
person passing by.
The above club was closed in 1829, when many of the members
had their central meeting at Miss Polly Strong's, fruiterer, High
street. The shop stood where is now the pathway in Queen street,
adjoining Mr. Stile's, bookseller. The evening rendezvous was at
Mr. Pye's tobacconist, now the Gazette Office, and was named "The
Carlton Club." The Reformers' news-shop was at Mr. Norcombe's,
woollen draper, corner of North street, now Mr. May's ironmonger.
On Captain Cook's leaving Moll's Coffee House, he would go to
Mr. Curson's, bookseller, write his bulletin, which was exceedingly
amusing, and giving the pith of news both local and foreign, and
would hang it up adjoining his shop. On one occasion, on his
pasting it up, a party took it off, followed him down the street,
patted him on the back, saying, " Good morning Mr. Cook," and
leaving it on his coat, he walked quietly on, much to the amuse-
ment of those who saw it.
Some time since a gentleman told me he remembered when only
two clerks were employed in the post office, and one old woman
who delivered the letters, which she took in a basket. At present
the postal department in Exeter numbers about fifty, with telegraph
clerks and messengers between sixty and seventy.
P.S. — The postage from London previous to the penny postage
was eleven pence, and for the smallest enclosure double was
charged ; size limited to a sheet of fools-cap, envelopes being
scarcely known. Peers and members of Parliament had the privi-
lege of franking so many letters per day, by putting their names
at the corner of the address.
A FEW EECOLLECTIONS OF THE OLD IDE BURLESQUE
ELECTIONS.
After a contest for the city or county representation, persons who
had taken an active part, or made themselves very prominent during
the contest, were considered eligible to represent the above borough.
According to custom addresses were printed and circulated, some-
times they were far from being complimentary or satisfactory towards
43
the candidate. Then came out answers and numerous w£H written
squibs, &c%, &c. The candidate was generally represented by
some noted or eccentric man. Names and titles according to circum-
stances, profession, or business, such as Lord Gooseberry, Lord
Hallidagger, Lord Leatheram, Sir Harry Squintem, Sir Nicholas
Tallow, Sir Osborn China, &c., &c.
When a procession was intended it was generally organized in
St. Sidwell's, that it might pass through the High and Fore street
on its way to the polling place on Ide green.
The representative candidate was in a dress similar to that
generally worn, and was conveyed in a decorated cart accompanied
by a large assemblage (not quite the elite of the city.) The musicians
were allowed to choose their own instruments or materials, and
play their own tune with variations. On the occasion of " Sir
Nicholas Tallow's " procession, various designs, banners, and
several high poles, surmounted with stuffed pheasants were carried,
the latter emblematic of real ones, sent to him by a city candidate
as an inducement for his vote and interest on his behalf.
The last principal procession I remember was the candidature of
" Sir Osborn China," who was a glass and china dealer. His head
was surmounted with a white, one-handled vase, which he very
politely took off, on seeing any ladies favourable to his ideas —
following his equipage were about thirty donkeys ridden by boys,
voters, &c., &c. On arriving at the green, the usual preliminaries
were gone through. The proposer and seconder then expressed
their opinions of the capability of the candidate to represent that
ancient, loyal, and independent borough.
The representative candidate was then ordered to speak his
sentiments like a man, and after the enthusiastic reception, cheering,
&c., and having to remove his hat that had been knocked down
over his face several times, he would commence with, My lords,
ladies and gentlemen, I will promise that if returned for this
borough, it shall be equal to any place in the world. I will
get his Majesty to reside here. A levee shall be held once a
month, and every man, woman and child, shall be presented at
court ; also at the first opportunity both houses of Parliament shall
be built here. And that you may be enabled to have tea cheaper,
I will order a canal to be cut, that the largest ships from China
shall come close to your doors, your mill stream shall be turned
into milk, beer shall be pumped from your wells, made from, the
finest malt and hops that can be procured. I will order the
adjacent hills to be opened for the supply of coals ; I will also have
an Act of Parliament passed, that no widow shall marry before her
44
husband's death. After these and many other ridiculous promises,
also absurd questions put by the electors, a show of hands was
demanded, and, 110 other candidate proposed, he was considered
qualified and duly elected.
The committee then adjourned to the nearest public, formed a
deputation to wait on the newly-elected member to ascertain the
reason he had not taken his seat in the House of Commons. The
answer not being satisfactory, he was ordered to be taken to the
Bridewell, for the remainder of the Session. The people then
congregated at a given locality and marched to the city, making
the most discordant noises imaginable. On arriving at head-
quarters the fun was kept up to a late hour, the present police and
licensing acts not being in operation then. Sometimes there were
rival candidates for the above important position. The mode
adopted for recording votes was, on the appearance of a man or
woman on the green, two men would take hold of each arm,
another push him in the back with great force against the wall,
which was recorded as a plumper, any party having a prominent
nose, occasionally the colour of his blood was to be seen, then the
vote was entered as a split one. The state of the poll was an-
nounced every five minutes, sometimes increasing by thoiisands.
On one occasion the close of the poll was stated to be 909,090 the
defeated candidate only polling 111,111. The expenses of candi-
dates, &c., were defrayed by subscriptions.
CITY GAOLS.
Being one "of those few living amongst us who have a personal
recollection of the outside of the old Bridewell in South street,"
I am induced to give a few recollections about it. It was called
Southgate prison, I have a vivid idea of the sombre appearance of
it, standing across the street in a line with the present Trinity
Church. Over the archway were the apartments for debtors, from
which they had a view up South street, the bulk of the building
being by the side adjoining the town wall. From this prison
Homeyard was taken to be hung at Magdalen temporary drop for
forgerj', Nov. 13th 1818, he being the first hanged by the city
authorities for thirty-two years. A large crowd accompanied him.
He was sitting in a cart, with a book in his hand, his coffin beside
him, the clergyman walking by the side. On the completion of the
45
gaol, Northernhay street, June 1819, the prisoners were conveyed
there. The first to enter was a debtor, a tradesman of High street,
followed by another. I believe those were the only two debtors.
The other prisoners were removed the same day, the route being
through South and North streets, and up Northernhay street,
there being no other carriage way at that time. Foot passengers
went through Maddox row. The latter was opened in 1771, and is
the only stone arch connecting the city wall left.
My first recollection of the city prison was being taken there to
witness its building, when about six years of age, and now living
this wcok to see the first preliminaries to its demolition, the site
being intended, I hope, for a better and more agreeable purpose.
During the time from June, 1819, to September, 1863 (the latter
date the prisoners Avere transferred to the county gaol) I have
known many exciting trials for criminals. I will name one out of
the many. W. H. Ellis, clerk to Mrs. Newman, grocer, Fore
street, was charged with robbery of money from her. After many
examinations he was committed for trial September 7th, 1825, con-
victed January 9th, 182G, and sentenced to transportation. On
opening his box it was nearly full of silver coins, the bulk being
sixpenny pieces, of which there were some thousands. The remarks
about the gaol and Mc'Carthy's attempt to escape are correct. As
it may interest your readers, I will add a few more particulars,
having at the time visited the gaol and heard the warder's narrative
of the affair. He said there was a rumour that something was
going to occur on the Sunday morning about service time, and
extra policemen were on duty, but invisible to the prisoners.
Suddenly Warder Guppy's wife gave an alarm that a prisoner was
trying to escape over the outer wall. The police ran down in time
to get hold of his legs ; in about two minutes more he would have
been in the field now occupied by the South Western Railway
Company.
It was the surprise of all how he could have managed. The
warder, going his last rounds, saw him apparently asleep. After
this he must have worked in earnest, making a jacket, cap, and bag
for a brick, also long ropes with his blankets. The ropes were
about the circumference of a penny. The dress was very nicely
made, and intended to represent a baker's. He was a tailor by
trade. With an old spoon he gradually cut from the inside the
panel of the door, and with a push with his foot got into the airing
ground, ascended the wall, stood on the two points, throwing the
rick over the outer wall, which caught, and lie began to climb
until checked. He was a very daring character, and was sentenced
46
to twenty years' transportation for housebreaking at Mr. Windeat's,
draper, Broadgate, within a few yards of the police station, effecting
his entrance by breaking a square of glass over the doorway, The
unfortunate city debtors, under the care of Mr. Gully, received
every reasonable comfort, and friends were admitted to visit them
within certain hours. Mr. Gully, sen., was governor of the South-
gate Prison, also at the City Gaol, until his decease in 1830, when
his son (Mr. J. Gully) was appointed, and continued to hold the
office until September 1863, when the prisoners were removed to the
County Gaol.
EEMINISCENCES OF OLD EXETEE.
Persons who have been absent from Semper Fidelis for many
years, on re-visiting the old city, declare that it is improved and
so much altered that they cannot recognise some of the localities.
As many of the present inhabitants can scarcely realize these
improvements, I will mention a few within my remembrance : —
High, Fore, and the other streets were paved with small stones,
but are now macadamised. To this latter' plan many inhabitants
objected, saying the streets would be very muddy or dusty ; to
which the late Captain John Cooke, who was a Commissioner,
replied : "If swept there would be no mud ; if watered there
would be no dust." I will leave to the reader's imagination the
noise from the traffic over the stones. Southgate has been taken
down. It crossed the stieet opposite Trinity Church, and the city
debtors and prisoners who were confined within it were removed to
the prison in Northernhay street in 1819.
North street was widened at the top in 1821, there beiug then
just sufficient space for a cart to pass. " Father Peter " was not
at that time in so elevated a position as he is now. I remember
when a child, being lifted from the street to touch the " black
man :" the figure was protected with iron rails. Broadgate was
removed and widened in 1825 : during the process, coaches and
vehicles passed up and down Martin street, which gate was taken
down in 1819. South street was widened in 1830, and was before
so narrow that Russell's waggons were sometimes obliged to have
goods taken out at the top of the street. The Conduit then ex-
tended about eight feet from the College Hall. At a more recent
date Bell hill was lowered and widened. An idea may be formed
of the former width when I say that the upper parts of some of
the houses were just within shaking hands distance.
47
In 1834 the North street Iron Bridge was erected, its position
being carried by a majority of one, the opposing party wishing to
have it in a line with North street. Previous to this all carriages
and vehicles from North Devon came over St. David's Hill, and
dow then very steep descent to the Plume of Feathers, passing tho
Barnstaple Inn (the front of which is made ground, the original
depth being on a level with Exe lane), thence up North street.
The traffic up and down was almost incessant. I have seen from
12 to 20 pair horse carts in succession, laden with lime, coming
from the St. Leonard's and Countess Wear kilns. St. David's hill has
been lowered and widened towards Bed Cow Gate, some cottages
taken down on the right near Elmfield House, a row of fine old trees
cut down in front of Mr. Newcombe's town residence, now
Mansion House School. Pound lane, leading to Hoopern Fields,
being very narrow, was widened. The only residence in this
locality was AVoodbine cottage, for many years the residence of
Mr. H. Sellers, now taken down for the purpose of erecting a row
of houses by Mr. Roberts. About 1833 the High street footpaths
were laid with Yorkshire stone, by Mr. Whitaker, contractor, who
subsequently was appointed City Surveyor, under the old Commiss-
ioners. By his advice and under his sxiperintendence, numerous
improvements were effected. The first important one he did was
the lowering of Fore street hill, by commencing just below North
street, taking off the surface, and graduating until between three
and four feet were removed. During the process all coaches and
vehicles to the city passed through Bridge street, the original
entrance.
The old Exe bridge was almost in a line with St. Thomas. The
present one was built about 1776, and cost £30,000. Previous to
this there was no direct entrance to Fore street hill, the city walls
crossing at Westgate, just in the rear of Mr. Norton's, baker.
New Bridge street was filled in and houses erected, the former
level being the Island and Frog street.
The site on which the Lower Market is built, and which was
opened December 9th, 1836, was a portion of the Butchers' row,
the entrance to which from Fore street was a narrow passage, not
so wide as the path, adjoining Mr. Pearse's, ironmonger, with a
thoroughfare opposite leading to Guinea street of a similar width,
without light or ventilation, the exit by the side of the Old Golden
Lion Inn. The upper entrance to the Butchers' row was through
Milk street, a pathway, the end a butcher's shop kept by Mr.
England, and so narrow, that I have seen them take joints of meat
from the stall to admit the horses' heads for the purpose of turning
48
the corner. The cart entrance to the Butchers' row was under St.
John's Bow, the arch being so low that carts were obliged fre-
quently to partially unload. The direct line from the Old Bridge
was up Stepcote hill. I have seen three horses pulling a waggon
up that steep ascent.
At this time vehicles were not so much used. Wood, furze,
potatoes, &c., were brought in on horses' backs, with crooks or
cradles, a man leading the first horse, with three or four following.
King street (Fore street hill) was formerly occupied by two shops,
with premises behind, one a comb manufactory, but is now a direct
line to that useful and desirable establishment, the baths and wash-
houses. Hack street, now called Coombe street, has been from top
to bottom more or less widened. On the left hand side from Quay
hill to the AVestgate, a row of houses has been taken down, giving
light and air, and a very extensive view from Kedhills to Haldon
and Mamhead, also of the Quay and river. The contrast between
now and then is almost beyond imagination. With the exception of
the house now standing at the corner, a whole row of houses has
been taken down in Old Bridge street. Shillhay — now Commercial
road — has been very much improved.
In the Bonhay there was no carriage way, but now an excellent
road to the Bristol and Exeter Railway. The site of the Cattle
Market was a rackfield for drying serges, &c. Lammas fair was
first held there and in Exe Island, August 1823. Any person who
has not been through Bartholomew yard lately will be agreeably
surprised at the recent improvements, the old yard being re-trimmed,
the Cemetery clean and well stocked with shrubs and mementos, a
capital broadpath walk between the two cemeteries, with a beautiful
view over the valleys to the distant hills. Previously there was no
railing around Bartholomew yard, two riigged paths went across to
the entrance opposite Friernhay street, where was a brick building,
one side used by clergymen for registering burials, &c., and the
other side by the gravedigger for his tools, with a wicket gate
adjoining. Before the Lower Cemetery was converted to its present
use, it was three fields kept for grazing. At the bottom there was
a wide open drain ; on the other side a succession of pigs' habitations,
almost everv inhabitant of Exe lane being the owner of one or two,
and there being no sanitary laws the odour at times were far from
agreeable.
At the top, the city walls extended the whole length, about 4 feet
high and 2 thick. Near the middle of the yard was a recess in the
nail to allow about six persons to sit, with an inscription overhead
of the date of consecration, which was on Bartholomew's Day, 1637.
49
The Lower Cemetery was consecrated by Bishop Phill potts, August
24th, 1837, from which time to the opening of the New Cemetery
in May, 1866, just 18,000 bodies were interred.
The foregoing remarks relate to changes, &c., in the lower part
of the city.
I have seen two dates relative to the year Exe Bridge was built
— 1766 and 1769, very probably the first Avas the commencement,
the other the finish of it. There is a toll of sixpence demanded
from retail milksellers coming over the Bridge on thefirst Lammas
Fair Day, and I believe also from retailers in the city.
CITY CHANGES.
Mr. A W. Davis, of Weymouth, alluding to my letter of the 5th
July, says, " Being an Exonian I find the writer has made two
errors." His letter states that Southgate was taken down in 1818;
it should be 1810, during the Mayoralty of T. Floud, Esq. Also, the
consecration of the old Bartholomew yard should have been 1603,
instead of 1637.
The city prison, Northernhay street, was built for the debtors
and prisoners, confined in the Southgate ; the foundation stone was
laid by C. Brake, Esq., Mayor, 4th June, 1818, and it was opened
in the following year, during the Mayoralty of T. Floud, Esq. The
different stages of the building are to my mind quite familiar. I
know who the first unfortunate debtor was to enter, also the
pulling down of Southgate, and the laying of the foundation stone
of Trinity Church, on the 24th, June, 1819, by S. F. Milford, Esq.,
which church stands on part of the ground of the old gate. It was
built, and was opened on Christmas Day, 1820, therefore the date
Mr. Davis quotes from, is a misprint. I have also a list of Mayors
for Exeter from 1800, and the name of T. Floud Esq., is mentioned
twice — the years 1801 and 1819. The following is stated to be the
years the four gates were taken down — North 1769, East 1784,
West 1815, South 1819.
With respect to the consecration of Bartholomew yard, I remem-
ber it was arranged that the Lower Cemetery should be consecrated
on the 200th anniversary of the old one, which was according^ done
by Bishop Phillpotts, on the 24th August, 1837. A procession was
formed at the Cathedral emerging into High and North streets. At
the entrance the choristers sang Jackson's Te Deutn. John Gill,
the city crier, who has had the care of the old yard for more than
fifty years, informed me it was opened in 1637, the original tablet
D
50
being inserted in the wall almost opposite to its first place. South -
ernhay yard was consecrated in 1604. Previous to these Cemeteries
being opened the Cathedral and Mary Major's Yards were the
burial places for about one thousand years.
THE EIVEE. A BETEOSPECT.
On taking a walk towaids the Haven Banks, a few reminiscences
of my boj'hood flashed across my mind. Leaving Holloway street,
I remembered the very contracted entrance to the Friars, which
now is a wide carriage road with a view of the Belvidereon Haldon,
the surrounding woods and green fields, which are always pleasing
to the eye.
Where stands the Quaker's Meeting House (now used as a tem-
porary Board school), and the houses below, was a rackfield where
I have seen the various coloured serges stretched out to dry.
Colleton Crescent very little altered, from which you have one of
the most charming and extensive views in the neighbourhood.
This crescent was built in 1802 ; in front of each house is a relic of
bygone days — an iron framework for oil lamps, gas being burnt in
the public streets, 1817. On my arriving at the quay steps, a door
now in lieu of an open space leading to a nice wide path under
Colleton Crescent green, from which was a good view of the river
and canal, also overlooking the busy, quays. On widening the
lower part the upper frontage of the wall gradually gave way, and
it not being considered safe, the walk was closed.
At the quay were three good sized vessels and one fine steamer,
"the Ossian," consigned to this port with brandy, the largest I
ever saw here. I thought what a contrast now and the quay
previous to the railway being opened to Exeter 1844 ; I have seen
from 20 to 30 vessels, two or three deep, lying there, and the
ground covered with various goods and packages, the quay for
goods just extending below the passage boat house. Beyond this
were coal yards and sheds (there being no thoroughfare then to
the lime kilns). At this time the import of coals was immense, the
surrounding towns and villages being supplied by the merchants.
There were two trading companies for merchandise having about
six vessels each, the tonnage from 120 to 180, sailing to and from
London weekly, weather permitting. I have known goods delivered
from London within the week, also some delayed more than a month.
When delay arose and goods were wanted, parties would send to
the Wharfinger's Office to enquire after the ship ; sometimes the
51
answer was "not sailed yet, wind wrong way," or, "wo do not
know where she is." On a vessel clearing the wharf, a manifest
was forwarded, which was the only way of persons knowing for
certain what vessels their goods were shipped in. Any of these
traders being seen from Exmouth and passing the bar, a messenger
who had a list would walk post haste to Exeter to announce her
arrival to those who had goods on board, for which 3d., Gd., 9d.,
or Is., was given him according to circumstances.
When discharging, the heavy goods were brought up in a korry
or sledge, the smaller parcels by privileged porters on wheel-
barrows, who could engage an outsider to help, by attaching a
rope and putting it across his shoulders, for which about fourpence
per cwt. was paid on delivery. I believe these men wpre authorized
to receive the charges for town dues, freemen of the city being
exempt
In connection with the shipping I have seen small crafts building
and repairing at the corner of what is now Messrs. Gabriel's timber
yard, then a rack field. Opposite the quay within the enclosed
wall and basin was a rough piece of undulating ground, with a
stagnant pool of water, which in winter was a place of resort for
skating and sliding on the ice.
The basin was opened by the Mayor and Chamber on Michaelmas
day, 1830. A favourite vessel, the "Kanger," Captain Mitchell
was the first to enter with flying colours, flags, &c. Previous to
this the canal was extended from Turf to Topsham Lock ; the first
turf was cut by the Mayor, Humphrey Pinhey, Esq., April 19th,
1825. I remember when about twelve years of age walking down
with my father, and his shewing and explaining to me the principle
of the foundation, and the machinery lor opening and shutting the
locks, which were finished and opened in September, 1827. Some
other portions of the canal were deepened to allow vessels of a
larger size to come up than before.
The respected wharfinger, Mr. Banfill, -must have experienced
the most practical knowledge ef the great change in the shipping
at this port, he having been connected with this office for more
than fifty years.
Above I omitted to mention the many years the large cannon lay
about the quay, but now put to a practical use as guards to the
gas pillars. These cannon were taken from the field of Waterloo,
and intended as trophies for the Wellington monument, Somerset,
but the freight and dues were so much, also the difficulty and
expense of carriage to thoir intended destination, that the idea was
abandoned.
D3
52
REMINISCENCES OF EXETER.
CATHEDRAL YARD. — An enclosure of wooden posts once occupied
the place of the iron palisading : the yard was covered with gravel,
and a pathway of paved stones led down the centre. No protection
around the building ; we were enabled to go around the buttresses.
One or two houses stood this side of Chancellor Harington's
residence, with, I believe, a garden behind, extending almost to
the " Lady Chapel." On the site of Canon Cook's house stood two
houses at a very little distance from the thoroughfare, with a dwarf
wall and iron railing in front ; one was a boarding school for young
ladies, the other, I think, was occupied by the late Dr. Blackall.
Beyond this is the iron bridge spanning the city walls. This bridge
was erected on demolishing the wall, the outlet being a doorway.
It was locked at night, and the keys kept by the man living at
Broadgate, hence the reason of "no right of carriage way to South-
ernhay." On each side of the bridge in cast-iron letters are
Burnett Patch, Mayor, R. Trewman, Esq., Receiver, 1814. I
presume this was the year the present wide opening was made.
Many years since a portion of the Yard was enclosed with iron
rails, taking a sweep from the north-east doorway passage to just
above the institution round. to the front of the -Cathedral; the
enclosure being grassed, the open space left was a general play-
ground for boys, whose noise was a great annoyance to the residents,
and business departments, many important offices being within
the Close, also four private banks, of which two remain. Some
years since the Exeter Bank was almost re-built and remodelled ;
now 1876, the City Bank is being re-built, and when the other
Aving is finished, it will greatly add to the appearance of the Yard.
Of the bankers, in the former I have known two, and the latter
three generations. In addition to the four banks, there was another
private one in the High street, called " The West of England" firm,
Eloud and Co. On the night of llth May, 1829, there was a large
robbery from this bank.
Two houses stood near the Deanery, and the carriage road
was only wide enough to allow one vehicle to go through. The
College was a row of houses on each side, many occupied by trades-
men. In 1838 some of the larger trees were cut down in the lower
pait of the Yard, near where the pump stood. The upper part of
the Yard, now Mr. Worth's Art Gallery, was "Moll's Coffee House,"
where the county gentlemen, merchants, bankers, &c., &c., would
meet daily to discuss the topics of the day, but from some cause it
53
was closed in 1829. Many coaches used to start from and arrive at the
Royal Clarence Hotel, kept by Mr. Congdoii. The house has lately
been refaced, remodelled, and enlarged by Mr. Birkett, and it is
frequented by many private families for its quietness from the
bustle of the city, also its proximity to the venerable Cathedral.
SOUTHERNHAY. — The upper green was an open space, a resort for
children to play, and used at fairs and other times for menageries,
shows, &c. ; the horse fair the other side of the road, extending
from Dix's Field to the Barnfield, also opposite on one site of No. 2
green. I have seen as many as three hundred tied up awaiting
purchasers. It was almost impassable, and dangerous from the
restlessness and trying the speed and action of the animals. No. 4,
the lower green, was a rough piece of ground, used by children
playing ; the site of the houses opposite was a deep incline used
for depositing refuse from old buildings, &c. At the end, in front
of those large old trees, was used for menageries, shows, &c.
In front of the Hospital (which was built in 1741) and down to
Magdalen street, road widened 1827.
BEDFORD CIRCUS. — In 1825 the Circus began to be completed.
The site on the right from the High street was a stand for empty
carriages, carts, &c., also stables and yards, a coachmaker (Mr.
Brown) occupying the site of the Surveyor's office. In 1820 the
theatre was burnt down; 1821 re-opened; and in 1823 handbills
were issued: "Theatre closed — N.B. deserled"; in 1831 it was
rebuilt. In the same year Bedford Chapel was begun. The
removal of the houses, and thus throwing open to view the green
from High street, will have a very pretty appearance, besides
the advantage of more ventilation. This idea was spoken of when
I resided in the parish of St. Stephen forty-five years since, when
the Circus improvements were in contemplation, but so many
difficulties arose that it was abandoned. The shop lately occupied
by Mr. Hawkins was a private house, with railings in front,
and the Half Moon Hotel had a very different appearance. It was
kept by Mrs. Medland, afterwards by Mr. Stephens ; when several
coaches started for and arrived from various parts, the guards
enlivening the inhabitants with tunes from their bugles. One was
named " Jack Goodwin," who was considered a master of this
instrument, which now is quite out of date. I understand he is still
living at Plymouth. The booking office was at the shop now
occupied by Mr. Norris, tailor. Under the management of the
present occupier, Mr. Gardner, the hotel has a very clean and nice
appearance.
54
PAST ELECTIONS.
Ou a dissolution of Parliament the writ was generally received
in the city about two days afterwards ; it was read by the High
Constable in the middle arch of the Guildhall, where, if there was
a probability of a contest, the different partisans assembled, and I
have known it terminate in a fight.
At the nomination, about three days afterwards, at the Guildhall,
the electors would meet their respective candidates at their hotels,
and escort them to the hall. They were admitted at the back door,
admission being by tickets, 150 being allowed to each candidate,
and the same number for the Sheriff. At eleven o'clock the front
door was opened, when the rush Avas immense, and the noise
scarcely bearable.
I remember the great excitement when Sir "W. Follett was elected,
after his first defeat in 1832, when he was lowest on the poll by
135. His friends were determined to elect him, if possible, on the
next occasion, and Conservative meetings, which took place once a
month, in various parts of the city, presided over by gentlemen of
the locality, especially by the late J. Carew, Esq., who took great
interest in the cause, my brother being the secretary. In 1835,
on a dissolution, Sir. W. Follett stood at the head of the poll by a
majority of .390. In 1837, on Her present Majesty ascending the
throne, the Parliament was dissolved, and the city election was
fixed for the 22nd July, when there was no contest, Sir W. Follett
and Mr. Divett being re-elected; the former proposed by S.
Kingdon, Esq., seconded by E. A. Sanders, Esq., which was the
debut of the present respected President of the Exeter Conservative
association. E. Divett, Esq., was proposed by J. Tyrrell, Esq.,
seconded by — Kesterman, Esq., J. H. Terrell, Esq., Sheriff.
On Sir W. Follett' s first election, we had the largest procession
I ever saw in the city, it being more than a quarter of a mile long,
headed, as usual, by the then rising generation, followed by
respectable young men, arm-in-arm, six abreast, interspersed by
banners, flag-bearers, and musicians, Sir Win., hat in hand,
and gentlemen and tradesmen, all on horseback, private carriages
and various vehicles all decorated, in the last carriage was a firm
supporter of Sir W. Follett, the late J. B. Sanders. Esq., who,
knowing the excited state of some portion of the inhabitants
against the Conservatives, provided himself with some pounds of
pence, which he threw amongst the crowd when he heard the
groaning and hissing, and the coppers had the desired effect of his
55
passing in comparative quiet. It was a beautiful sight, especially
in the High street, to see the decorations of the houses with flags,
banners, and mottoes; almost every window was occupied by
ladies, with blue dresses, bonnets, &c. On this occasion the
beautiful silk flag bearing Sir W. Follett's coat of arms was used,
and for it the ladies subscribed one hundred guineas; also four
beautiful silk banners, with coronets on the top, subscribed for by
a few tradesmen. The flag was under the care of Mr. W. Piper,
and was hoisted on any particular occasion, across the street, from,
his house to Mr. Kingdou's, fringe maker. The banners were
entrusted to Mr. D. Ross, watchmaker, and used by him. on all
loyal occasions from his four windows. The banners wore presented
a few months since to the Exeter Working-men's Conservative
Union. As the procession was passing thr.mgh Heavitree it was
met by many barristers of the Western Circuit (it being the com-
mission-day of the Assizes), who stood up in their carriages and
cheered Sir William heartily. Sir W. Follett presented a very
handsome silver teapot to Mr. Piper for his zeal in the cause. As
far as I can ascertain theru are about twenty-four voters living who
voted in 1832.
FIRST EXETER RIFLE VOLUNTEERS.
I remember the first raising of members previous to ths Govern-
ment authorising the enrolment as a national movement in 1855).
Many times have I seen only about twelve or fourteen drilling in
the Castle yard, and as an impetus to others many gentlemen joined.
The late Major W. D. Moore took very great interest and trouble
in its formation, and at his death in April 1874 was the senior
volunteer officer in the kingdom. I may also niontion some others
who joined as officers and privates : — F. Hirtzell, J. Geare, W.
Jones, W. Crabb, T. Floud, G. Trtiscott, G. Camming, &c.
The Exeter corps can also boast of five officers who have been
mayors for the city, viz., Aldermen W. D. Moore, W. Buckingham,
J. Harding, H. C. Lloyd, and H. Wilcocks, Esq. Captain
W. J. Richai'ds is now the senior officer, whose willingness
and assistance is known to all. Mr. George Wippell retired a few
months since on account of illness, having been a very useful
member for upwards of twenty years. Mr. Tripe was also one
of the first to join the corps.
56
THE LONG BKOOK AND WATERLOO PLACE.
A discussion at a Town Council meeting respecting the inunda-
tion in Long-brook street and Waterloo place (the latter -when built
was named " Rockfield") induces me to give my recollections as to
the alterations and improvements in this locality. The water that
flowed through the brook arose from springs at Lion's Holt, and
the brook was not considered a sewer. About the centre of Eldon
place, on the opposite side, was a pond about three feet deep : the
overflow of this ran towards the bottom of Barrack road. This
pond was guarded by a white wooden fence, with posts, a large
willow tree overhanging. The road was veiy little more than half
of the present width ; there was a field where now the lower
gardens are, belonging to Park place, enclosed with a wide hedge.
At times there was a large flow of water through this brook, and
T have seen boys bathing in it in the field opposite the old gaol
doorway, Befoi'e the North road was cut (about 183;5) there was a
suc-OL'Ssion of fields from Barrack road to St. David's Church, a very
pleasant walk and a resort for children gathering buttercups and
daisies. Previous to the road being cut under Northernhay, Ford's
Nursery existed there, and extended to the back of Waterloo place.
Shortly after these d \vellings were erected, there being no Sanitary
Board then, no notice was taken of the locality, but strong remarks
were made respecting the skeleton structures, built as they were
with, very old materials. My impression is there was no arch formed
over the brook under these houses, but that they were supported
by rafters. As soon as possible after the cholera visitation of 1832
all open drains were covered. Dr. Shapter, Mr. J. Daw, and
others, were very energetic in seeing the work carried out,
Mr. Whitaker Surveyor. Previous to this I have seen pea-
soup -colour fogs so thick at eight o'clock in the morning that
one could scarcely distinguish shops across the High street.
EEMINISCENCES OF EXETEE.
Two men watering the streets with malt sccops. the water being
ponded buck by canvas and a piece of wood. The water was forced
up into the city from Engine bridge by wheel and machinery- -the
property of the late James Golsworthy, Esq. Fire plugs were first
laid down in 1H22 ; the West of Eugiand Insurance Company sub-
scribed £200 towards it. Twenty to thirty water-carts drawn daily
57
through the High street by horses and donkeys, the water being
dipped from the Exe, behind Mr. Bradbeer's, brushmaker, and
retailed at halfpenny per bucket or three for a penny. The lower
part of the city was supplied by men carrying two buckets with a
hoop, and a piece of wood floating to prevent waste — two buckets
for a halfpenny.
After heavy rain in the hilly streets, boys searching in the gutters
for nails and pieces of iron, it being the wonder from whence they
came ; I have seen their caps half full. During heavy rain, tubs
and every available utensil put in the streets to catch the water.
Twenty to thirty people waiting at the condiiit in South street for
their turn for water ; the supply at times was so limited that it
would take half an hour to fill a bucket or pitcher, and parties had
frequently to wait three or four hours for it. Many people may not
know why the above was so appreciated : it was considered the
best for tea and pea-soup. It came from the Lion's Holt spring,
and flowed through pipe? down the High street in a subterranean
passage, and the pipes were examined by opening trap doors, and
men descending with a lantern; the only trap that I am aware of in
High street is one in front of Mrs. Stone's, jeweller, adjoining the
kerb.
On a fire occurring in the city, at night, the bell was rung at the
Guildhall, where a small engine provided by the Chamber was kept
in the hall. Three and four horses with cradles on their backs,
each carrying a seam of wood, sixteen faggots, the foremost being
led by a man, the others by a rope fastened to each other. The
London Inn square filled by mail and other coaches. Sedan chairs
waiting for parties coming from a ball or concert, extending from
the Public Rooms to Mr. Mark Howe's, East Gate ; each man carried
a large larcp in front, and being very quick in their step, they were
like "Will o1 the wisps" darting about of a dark night. Hackney
coaches were not used until 1823, when Humphrey Stark started
four pair-horse ones, capable of carrying six or eight people.
Servant girls accompanying their mistresses from an evening
party, walking in front and carrying a large glass lantern lit with
two mould candles, held about four inches from the ground. I
remember on one occasion a gentleman asked the favour of a light
for his cigar, which was granted; in return, he quietly deposited
a rocket. They had not proceeded far when the lantern was blown
to pieces. This was previous to the nightly watch ; the latter was
begun on the 4th January, 1830. Southernhay at this time was the
great promenade on Sunday evenings, much to the annoyance of
the residents, but now scarcely a person to be seen.
58
Eussell's wagons partly unloaded at the top of South street, it not
being wide enough to get to their warehouse, the upper part of this
street widened in 1830. About twenty lime cai'ts in succession
coming from the kilns up South and down North streets. Have
seen three horses pulling a wagon up Stepcote hill. Also mail and
other coaches passing through West street, Coombe street, Palace
street, Cathedral yard, and up and down Martin street. Lamp-
lighters going through the streets with their torches to light the oil
lamps, dropping the fire as they walked. The only framework for
the above left I believe is in front of each house in Colleton crescent,
which was built in 1802. Gas was first used in the streets of Exeter,
July, 1817. I have been informed that Messrs. Bodley Brothers'
foundry in the Commercial road was the first lit with gas. Gas
from the new company burnt in Exeter, 22nd April, 1837.
Bakers' men with a long board or tray on their head to fetch and
carry dinners, also delivering bread to housekeepers, carrying an
immense basket on their shoulders capable of holding twenty to
thirty loaves, with a stick about eighteen inches long, and a knife
for the purpose of cutting a notch to lemember the different
deliveries ; its appearance when filled very like a miniature
ladder for spiders "to crawl up. At the Post Office unclaimed letters
put up in the window for identification. Half doors or gates at
shops in the High street with a bell attached, which were used
as lounges by the proprietors, when not engaged with customers.
Many shops without glass ; Mr. Clapp, ironmonger, Fore street,
now Mr. Wreford's, draper, was the first tradesman to have in his
shop front the large pieces of plate glass, having one on each side
about three feet square, and such was the novelty and wonderment
then, that hundreds of people went to see it.
Sermons preached at the various churches once in the year on
Sundays for the support of the charity schools, boxes being held at
the doors by parishioners, with four boys and four girls constantly
repeating the words, "Pray, pray, remember the charity children,
pray, pray," for which each received threepence. At most churches
a board was put up in the porch, with the words painted on it,
" Please take off your pattens."
NORTHEKXHAY FIFTY YEARS SINCE ANT* Now. — About the former
period a greater number of large trees stood on this spot than at
present. In 1612 it was levelled and 200 trees planted, so that we may
presume the large ones remaining are about 200 years' growth. It
was a very rough and rugged piece of ground known by the familiar
name of "Norney." The ground was covered with small stones
and gravel, many large roots of the trees running in all directions
59
on the surface. It was a resort for boys after school hours Two
of the principal attractions were the posts and slopes, the former
numbering about twenty, and four feet high, to prevent carriages
crossing. These were in a line with the entrance to Mrs. Carr's
residence, across to the house occupied by Councillor Tonkin. The
great feat to be accomplished by the juveniles was to jump over
these posts in succession. The slopes, there being no shrubs then,
were a series of places for sliding down, much to the advantage of
tailors and shoemakers.
The greatest number of people to be seen there was during the
assizes, when they assembled by hundreds for the purpose of seeing
the prisoners taken to and fro, about eight of them, at a time,
chained, and wearing heavy gyves, guarded by four javelin men,
carrying long staffs — spear-headed. There were only two paths
leading to the gaol, the principal one directly behind Mr. Tonkins
with a wicket gate, which was unhung during the Assizes to allow
the prisoners to pass more freely. This was also done at the outlet
gate over the brook bridge. The other path was at the other end,
but so dirty, being a deposit for rubbish, it was almost impassable.
There was an entrance to Mr. Ford's Nursery, now North road.
Northernhay in those days was a resort for tradesmen who met
about six o'clock in the morning for about two hours' exercise, and
to discuss the information read to them the previous evening at the
hotel or tavern they were in the habit of frequenting. Not then,
as now, a daily paper on the breakfast table ; only three weekly
ones at sixpence each, viz: JFoolmer's Gazette, Trewmarfs laying
JPost, and The Alfred. Now we can boast of four weeklies, three
dailies, and occasionally second and third editions. In the season
boys used it for football, and many a roll down the slopes, almost
break neck work, to prevent the ball from floating down the brook,
the water at times being sufficiently deep for bathing, which the
writer of this has seen. Also an assemblage of boys a month
previous to " possessioning " day for "parish fighting," and many
earnest battles have been fought there. It was also used for
drilling the recruits of the Militia. Northernhay place was an open
space, the city walls being perceivable. The shoe fair was held in
the front, commencing at the Subscription rooms. This building
was opened in October, 1820, with a musical festival. Previously
the site was let for exhibitions, horsemanships, &c. In December,
the same year, the first harmonic concert was held. The other
entrance to Northernhay was up between old stately trees commenc-
ing near the city prison. I stated in a previous letter there was no
entrance from Queen street; just above the present lodge was a
fruit shop, with a cottage behind, built against the town wall. In
1830 the walk was improved, laid out, and additional trees planted,
previous storms having uprooted many, and in levelling the surface
the roots being interfered with, it was considered advisable for
safety to fell more. AVith respect to Northernhay at the present
time, 1876, now so well kept in order under the care of Baker and
"Woosley, gardeners and lodge keepers, I leave the citizens to form
their own opinions. Visitors say what a beautiful spot ; almost a
park like appearance, and a great boon to have such a resort with
such pretty views within three minutes' walk from the centre of the
city, which I quite endorse ; and when the Horticultural Society
hold their exhibitions there, and are favoured with fine weather, it
is quite picturesque. This Society held their first exhibition at the
Subscription Booms, July 30th, 1829.
THE CASTLE YARD AND SESSION HOUSE for county business have
been greatly improved, there being originally only one roundabout
path to the city walls, no steps as now. From the end of this wall
there is a splendid view, extending from the extreme right of
Haldon to the four firs on Woodbury Common, also Exmouth. On
a fine day you can distinctly see vessels and boats sailing up and
down the Channel. There is besides a good overlook of the city,
with the whole length view of the Cathedral. I have witnessed
many exciting scenes in the yard, particularly at the time of a
contest for the county representation, commencing with the nomina-
tion, as many as ten to twelve thousand persons assembled, some of
them uproariously inclined. Again on the polling days, when all
voters from all parts of the county were required to record their
votes at the various booths erected in the yard. Also during the
Assizes, when witnesses, &c., amounting to several hundred persons
were waiting to be called, the number of causes and prisoners
being many more than now. I have known seventy-two causes
entered, and more than a hundred prisoners for trial; in July 1826
they occupied ten days. The yard was used for drilling the Militia,
their guardroom and stores being there ; and regiments passing
through Exeter would deposit their most valuable baggage within
the walls. The first Devon Agricultural Show was held in this yard.
ROUGEMONT, part of the Castle, was formerly occupied by the
late Edmund Granger, Esq., wine merchant, senior partner in the
firm now carried on by Messrs. Sanders and Snow. In 1802 many
citizens supported him as a candidate for Parliamentary honours,
but he was not successful, the result being Buller, 786 ; Baring, 637 ;
Granger, 444. This residence is now occupied by Mrs. Gard,
the much respected widow of the late E. S. Gard, Esq., some years
61
M.P. for Exeter. On his entering into possession of the domain,
Mr. Gard spared no expense in adding to its original picturesque
beauty, grottos, rockeries, embankments, and paths. By the kind-
ness of Mrs. Gard the grounds are now open daily, from ten to lour
o'clock. Those who have not seen them can scarcely realise such
pretty gardens and grounds within the walls of the city ; they are
kept in such good order and taste under the management of Mr.
Sclater, the head gardener ; the higher walk is exceedingly nice,
being about the level of the Cathedral roof; the view from the
tower is also very pretty, but from the growth of the surrounding
trees, not quite so extensive as years since.
SUNDAYS IN EXETER FIFTY 1EARS SINCE.
At half -past six in the morning the boom from the 12,500lbs.
clock bell at the Cathedral was heard ; for the first quarter of an
hour a single toll, then ten minutes double, and five minutes the
small nine o'clock bell, previous to the prayers in the "Lady
Chapel." At eight o'clock the different parish bells would toll for
a short time to announce there woidd be service ; if not, it was not
done. The same process was gone through after the morning
service was over, as occasionally out of the seventeen parish
churches open, from illness or other causes, a clergyman could not
be obtained to do the duty. In the Close a man went round to
inform the residents who was to be the preacher at the Cathedral.
At ten o'clock the staff of the Militia would assemble in the Castle
Yard, headed by their fifes and drums ; they marched through the
streets to the Cathedral, the north tower door being opened for
them. Prayers commenced at half-past ten. Many people would
go to hear the chants previous to going to their own churches, and
the inner gates not being closed until the second lesson, parties
would go round to see the monuments, «&c. The nave being open,
people were constantly moving about. The original seating and
pulpit had not then been removed ; when taken away the carved
pulpit was presented to the parish of St. James.
The afternoon service commenced at three o'clock; a great
number of people remained in the nave, who were designated
" Anthemites," because they would leave the church directly after
the anthem, and the noise and scuffling of the feet was a great
annoyance for some minutes. To avoid this, about eighteen years
since, the nave was fitted up for the afternoon service, Chancellor
Harington presenting the chairs.
62
After the vai-ious morning services were over, Northernhay was
the promenade, and there the citizens would have a "turn or two,"
previous to dinner time. All the churches were open in the after-
noon. Besides the two for "Bodleian Lectures," there were four
open in the evening, supported by subscriptions and voluntary
attendance of clergymen. A list of their arrangements for the year
was printed in the form of a sheet almanac. The churches being
lit with candles gave to them a very sombre appearance. After
the evening services the great promenade was on Southernhay, for
about two hours, much to the annoyance of the residents, the
noise of walking up and down being very great.
Apprentices and servants in the leading establishments were
required to attend church at least once on a Sunday. When no
places were provided for them they sat on lap seats in the aisles.
At this time housekeepers could boast of real servants. On a
Sunday they were seen going to church with a Prayer Book
wrapped in a clean white pocket handkerchief, neat cotton OT stuff
dress, no flounces or frills, neat net cap, and bonnet, pattern similar
to a black coal scuttle, and nearly as strong ; neither feathers,
flowers, or veils. On a wet day they provided themselves with a
good-sized "gingham," sufficiently large enough for three or four
persons ; also high pattens, and in the church porch might be seen
this notice painted up — ''Please take off your pattens."
Above I mentioned the 12,500lbs. Peter or clock bell. Formerly,
when hung, it was rung by twenty-four. men ; it had double wheels
and two ropes. The eleven bells in the south tower weigh about
30,452lbs., I believe the largest and heaviest peal in the kingdom.
In the same yard St. Petrock's peal is the lightest. I also men-
tioned the tolling of the bells for half-an-hour. Subsequently the
time was 'altered to a later hour ; it was considered that a
quarter of an hour's tolling would be sufficient. On informing the
man of the alteration, he said it was impossible, " having done it so
many years it is impossible to be done in the time, that is the orders."
I presume he did not, on his first attempt, find it a very difficult
undertaking.
I will endeavour to describe the most frequented and favourite
walks within a radius of four miles of the city on Sunday evenings
during the summer months. The reader must take into considera-
tion that the period is nearly thirty years previous to the supply of
facilities for going to so many places by railway. Heavitree was
considered the most quiet and respectable — the walk extending to
the bridge. Those wishing to go a greater distance branched off to
the right or left, to enjoy the lovely lanes so characteristic of this
63
locality. The village at that time had the larger houses occupied
by families on their return from India. This being the direct
i oad to London, about twenty-four coaches passed through it daily.
Below the turnpike was a row of houses called Middle row. In
1 821) the turnpike was removed to Liverydole, and the road widened.
Marypole-head road (which was cut in 1814, latterly named Penn-
sylvania) was an attractive walk, for its beautiful and extensive
scenery at Prospect gate, overlooking Pynes, with its surrounding
grounds and plantations ; also the silvery stream of the Exe for
miles. The higher ground behind affords almost a panoramic view;
on a clear day Honiton is discernable. Prom this the walks were
extended to either Stoke, Eewe, Poltimore, Pinhoe, &c. Stoke hill
being, very steep it was not so much frequented. From afield on
the summit you get the most extensive, and perhaps the finest view
in the count}', embracing parts of the four western counties.
Blackboy was the coach road to Bristol, Bath, Cheltenham, &c.,
and it was much frequented to enjoy the walk across the Nine Path
Fields to Heavitree and Topsham roads ; in 1830 the walk was
closed, a path made outside, and the road widened. The grounds
of Polsloe House, formed one of the fields, near there, I believe, the
last bull-baiting was held adjoining the city. The Cowley road, which
is the prettiest out of Exeter, was a favourite of artizans, the
"public " being a great attraction for its home brewed beer. After
rest and refreshment, the people would return over Mary-pole head,
or via Exwick, crossing over Cowley Bridge, which was opened,
after being rebuilt, in 1814. Another pretty and frequented walk,
which the present generation can scarcely remember, was from the
Bonhay to Duryard Oil Mills, by the side of the Exe, and through
pathfields, now the station and rail road. On Sunday mornings
hundreds of men and boys were to be seen bathing on each side of
Head weir.
The fields from the old boat house and lime kilns adjoining the
Quay leading to Salmon pool and Countess weir were also much
appreciated and frequented. The road to Topsham having a foot-
path the whole distance ; family circles would walk down to tea,
"and to inhale the sea breeze." The return walk was very enjoyable
but for those who could not accomplish the double journey, Lock's
four-wheel car, with cloth curtains, was waiting to convey them
home. Lock having a horse he did not like to hurry, the walkers
generally had to wait his arrival at the Valiant Soldier corner. At
this period Topsham was a busy and flourishing place ; respectable
families took lodgings there in the season as is now done at the
various watering places.
64
At this time we had a succession of cavalry regiments stationed
at the barracks, whose bands played for two hours in front of the
officers' quarters on Sunday evenings, which attracted a large
concourse of people. The barracks are in the parish of St. David.
During the incumbency of now the Rev. Chancellor Harington, he
held service at nine o'clock on Sunday mornings in the Riding
School, many citizens attending. Alluding to soldiers, during the
assizes no military men were allowed in the streets wearing uniform;
they were either confined within the Barrack yard, or separate
troops were sent to the surrounding towns, such as Tiverton,
Cullompton, Honiton, &c.
One boon the citizens could not enjoy at the foregoing era is
"Mount Dinham," which, for its pure air, views and walks, can
scarcely be equalled in the neighbourhood. The writer remembers
when the site, now covered with neat cottages, was either waste
ground or rough gardens. Our late respected citizen and philan-
thropist, Mr. John Dinham, thought the ground could be better
occupied ; he consulted some friends, and, with their advice and
that of the late Dr. Phillpotts, Bishop of Exeter, his wishes were
accomplished. Great credit is due to Mr. Chanter, gardener, for
the neatness with which the grounds are kept.
In continuation of Sunday evening walks, at the above period by
the citizens of Exeter on the other side of the Exe, from Haven
Banks to the Double Locks was the most frequented, from its pretty
scenery and refreshing air, being about two miles by the side of the
canal. The majority out of the many hundi'eds were mostly the
younger members of the community. At the quay about fifteen to
twenty vessels might be seen, and beyond were boats moving to
and fro, the double locks being the extent of the pull. The inn was
the rendezvous for refreshment, and was well patronised, every
room, the skittle alley, and forms in the field being engaged by the
weary ones. Those wishing a longer walk would return home
either via Countess Weir, Alphington, or Topsham. Those who
wished for a good constitutional would sometimes take the walk to
Waddlesdown, Whitstone, it being an ascent from the Okehampton
turnpike gate ; Red hills is the first rise to encounter. Originally
it was the coach road to Falmouth ; from its steepness, the turnpike
trustees allowed extra horses to assist in pulling vehicles up the hill
without additional toll, a painted fixed board directing where to
"put on, take off." In a field on the summit a beautiful view is
seen of the Somerset hills. On a fine clear day the Wellington
monument is discernable ; still ascending you arrive at Whitstone
Church, the tower being whitewashed is a land-mark from the sea.
65
Behind is Waddlesdown ; the sea and land views are very extensive,
twenty-one country parish towers can be counted, exclusive of
Exeter ; the return walk furnishes a diversity of scenery.
The walk to Exwick through the fields was also very pretty.'
Previous to the railway we had a view of the city on leaving
Okehampton street, the entrance commencing with the Eackfield at
Flower Pot. The view extended as far as Duryard, over a succes-
sion of fields, the river flowing between. Just opposite the Bonhay
at Flower Pot was a long dyke, a resort for boys fishing for
minnows, which had been cut with the idea of making a canal to
Crediton. Arriving at Exwick some took the route to Cowley -bridge,
others up the lane to Cleave, where about mid-way you have a pretty
sight of the river with the city in the distance, sketches of which
I have seen taken by our local artist, Mr. Spreat. On the opposite
hill, near Cleave House, is Messrs. Vanstone's nursery, and the
view from their summer house is very charming. The privilege of
seeing it many times has been mine, and no doubt any citizen would
get a similar reception, a welcome from the proprietors.
The walk to Ide was also very attractive through Cowick fields.
On the top of the steep field, the other side of the road, is a view
of the city, also down the vale to Topsham. On the reverse
side may be had a pretty peep over the beautiful vale of Ide. In
those days the village was recommended for invalids by the doctors.
On arriving at the entrance, pedestrians would branch off to the
various pretty lanes. The most frequented walk for those who had
children, it being almost level (no perambulators then), was
Alphington to the Cross, thence by the lanes to Exwick.
In the field behind St. Thomas Asylum were to be seen many
Seople conversing with the inmates from their day exercising room,
n one occasion I heard them singing the Hallelujah chorus ; the
man who sang the air would have been an acquisition to any
musical society. What a contrast in the mode of treatment of those
unfortunates then and now ; to wit, the beautiful Wonford building,
its arrangements, pretty grounds, and the liberty.
This gives but a very limited account of our beautiful walks
around the city. The writer in bygone days having at various
times enjoyed and appreciated them all. I have heard from tourists
and visitors, who are competent to give their opinions, say that
Exeter and its surroundings is as clean and pretty a place as they
ever visited. As to its supplies the best of commodities are obtainable
in the markets, granted not quite so reasonable as previous to the
railway transit. Shops that can supply the very best of materials;
also physicians and surgeons of great experience and sound judg-
E
66
ment, for which Exeter was always noted. I have known parties
who had gone to London for advice of the supposed cleverest men
in the kingdom ; who had been informed by the Docter consulted
they need not have come there, as he " knew of no place with
more skilful practitioners." I am pleased to say its reputation is
still kept up by pupils of the above, and others now practising in
the city. As to lawyers we have a full complement, some gifted
with lens who can read Acts of Parliament suitable to clients. With
all these advantages the " Ever Faithful " is well cared for.
In the foregoing I alluded to the pretty village of Ide. In the
same parish, about one mile from it, is Fordlands, in by gonedays a
pleasant resort for musical and tea parties, for its rustic scenery,
pleasant bowers, and numerous enveloped summer houses. The
friendly feeling that existed between professionals and amateurs
made it easy to organize a musical society, and the effect to listeners
was charming, the performers stationing themselves so as to be
heard and not seen. The three oldest amateur instrumentalists
surviving are Mr. Eamson, Mr. Banfill, and Dr. Eidgway. Also at
the above place is a large pond, which, from its exposed situation,
was in the season the first resort of gentlemen for skating. Two,
amongst others, they being experts, were the respected owner, J,
E. C. Walkey, Esq., and Winslow Jones, Esq.
FIFTH OF NOVEMBER REMINISCENCES.
The writer for fifty-six years, with, I believe, only two exceptions,
has had ocular demonstration of the anniversary of the Fifth of
November in the Cathedral yard. I will endeavour to describe my
first recollections of it, and some subsequent years. Many evenings
previous to the Fifth hundreds of juveniles would assemble, letting
off squibs, crackers, &c. On the fourth the Cathedral bells were
rung in commemoration of the landing of the Prince of Orange,
which acted as a zest for the following day. About four o'clock in
the morning the inhabitants were signalled for the evening's amuse-
ment by the report of cannons from various quarters of the city.
After breakfast guys of various descriptions were carried about,
asking for coin, the appeal being,—
" Please to remember the Fifth of November.
Up with the ladder, down with the rope,
Please give a penny to burn the old pope."
The larger guys were habited in old clothes, not forgetting the
67
corduroys, and suspended to one arm was a lantern, to the other a
bundle of matches, sharp pointed with brimstone ends. Juveniles
had smaller guys, the size of a doll, with which they visited parents'
friends, to try who would be the most generous on this burning
event. During the day, fireworks were constantly let off, and
unless pressed by emergency, horses and carriages did not come
into the city from fear of accidents. After the afternoon service at
the Cathedral the preparation for the bonfire commenced in the
yard, nearly opposite the residence now occupied by J. Hayward,
Esq.
It was not enclosed then as now, the boundary of the yard being
wooden posts and long thick rails; the bonfires when at the
highest have burnt the branches of the large trees. Occasionally
effigies were burnt ; there being no police force or licensing acts
then, the fun was kept up until about two in the morning, with
a succession of tar-barrels, rockets, &c., &c. Special constables
were sworn in to prevent the barrels from leaving the yard ; but
generally at some of the exits the youngsters succeeded, and then
kicked them through the streets until they fell to pieces. (No doubt
on reading this, you will think "where were the police?" Our
night guards at that time were a few old " Dogberrys " traversing
the streets ; their dress a very thick coat with about a dozen tapering
capes, lighted lantern, and rattle, giving warning to housebreakers by
calling out the hour of the night. The nightly watch was organised
in 1830 ; the four staff bearers acting as the day police).
At this time more fancy fireworks were let of£ than now. I have
seen various fancy pieces traversing on a wire from the Globe
Hotel to the Cathedral ; scarcely a fancy dress was then worn, only
a protection for the face, such as a fencing wire mask, &c.
In subsequent years, during the excitement of the Reform and
Municipal Bills, Free Trade, Corn Laws, and Surplice agitation,
effigies were capitally got up to represent prominent parties. The
largest procession I ever saw extended from the Royal Clarence
Hotel to Broadgate ; the advance being a representation of Gog
and Magog, followed by various dressed persons ; then priests,
friars, monks, nuns, &c., behind an immense wire cage, about
seven feet high, containing a figure in full canonicals, a very
discordant band accompanying. On another occasion soldiers from
the barracks were stationed in the Bishop's gardens ; another year
some mounted cavalry were ordered out and stationed in front Oi
the Guildhall, but the rockets were so numerously thrown about
the horses could not be kept quiet ; they retired to barracks await-
ing orders, but were not required.
68
Some years since it was thought by some parties this anniversary
should not be held in the Cathedral yard, but not a unanimous
feeling, as some in authority enjoyed the fun, and freely gave
their cash towards the bonfire. (The writer of this for many years
received the subscriptions). The Mayor on this evening usually
gave an oyster supper in the Council Chamber to officials and
friends.
In 1853 the Mayor, E. S. Cornish, Esq., thought if possible he
would prevent the celebration by not allowing the wood to be taken
into the yard, and at many pounds expense he purchased a variety
of fire works to be let off in the field near the Alexandra Nurseries,
Paris Street. (About five o'clock an explosion of fireworks occurred
at Mr. Osborne's, High street, which created a consternation.) A
large crowd assembled to witness the pyrotechnists' display, which
went off very satisfactorily, but at eight o'clock hand bells were
sounded and a cry raised, "•' To the Yard, to the Yard," which
was soon obeyed. About nine fire was applied to a shed where
now is Carlton terrace, North road ; this was done to withdraw
some of the police and firemen from the yard, and the wood was
then brought in by arrangement, by hundreds of willing hands ; a
fire was soon made, and with the aid of turpentine the yard was
quickly lighted up, followed by brilliant coloured fires, throwing a
hue over the faces of an enthusiastic but not a mischievous crowd.
A feeling prevailed with many of the authorities that if this
anniversary were kept out of the yard it would be impossible to
prevent rockets, &c., from being let off in all parts of the city,
which would be exceedingly dangerous. Since my recollection,
1820, no fire of premises has occurred in the yard from it. As to
the way the anniversary is now kept up our local papers have
already given a good description.
Previous to my recollection there was a determination one year
to prevent wood being taken into the yard for the bonfire. My
father informed me the youthful citizens were so determined on
the occasion that the posts and rails were cut down and burnt.
EEMINISCENCES OF CHRISTMAS FIFTY YEAES SINCE.
The choirs of various churches would go round the parishes on
Christmas-eve, stopping at the principal houses to sing an appro-
priate anthem or a Christmas carol, this over, the loudest tenor
voice would call out the names of the nearest residents, such as
' Good morning Mr. Snugg, good morning Mrs. Snugg, and all the
69
young Snuggs, past three o'clock ; a very cold and frosty morning ;'
or the snow is falling fast. The young reader must understand, in
those days, the winters were much more severe than now ; skating
almost a certainty, and snow falling at various times for two or
three days, and remaining on the ground for several weeks. I have
seen birds lying dead on the ground for want of food. My father
informed me that the snow had been so high on Haldon that men
were sent from Exeter to cut a passage through it, to allow the
mails to pass. Eeturning to the perambulation, the choir consisted
of singers, accompanied by a fiddle or two, bass viol, a clarionet or
flute. The above named instruments were used in churches that
had no organ. On the rounds some parties were waiting the
arrival of the choir with a cup of tea, coffee, or soup, which was
very acceptable. A good efficient choir would be accompanied by
lots of " camp followers " who rendered assistance by carrying
chairs, lanterns, &c., also by holding the music in front of the per-
formers. About six o'clock the various rounds were finished ; at
half-past six the Cathedral bell tolled out, the front doors were
opened, and then there was a great rush of people, about half
filling the nave, many in a state that indicated that they were not
members of the temperance society, being very noisy, and smoking.
This conduct not meeting the approval of the Dean and Chapter
they ceased to have the nave opened some years since. At seven
o'clock the organist played the Old Hundredth Psalm on the
" Great Organ," the chorister boys singing from the " Minstrels'
Gallery," which was lit up with candles. The morning and after-
noon services were thinly attended, but a great many outsiders
went to hear the anthem. The parish churches were well attended
in the morning, afternoon scarcely anyone present, evening three
or four churches open, and these very thinly attended. So universal
was the social and family gathering, that the High street in the
evening had the appearance of a deserted town, with respect to
people moving about.
Now for family meetings on Christmas days. "Grandfather"
would, if possible, invite the whole of his family descendants,
including grandchildren, to partake of what the festive table pro-
duced, which generally speaking, consisted of a goose, beef, and a
large smoked ham, &c., followed by a huge fig pudding covered
with white sugar to correspond with the snow clad roofs. Beer was
not forgotten, good home brewed October twelve months was tapped
by the landlords for their customers. Dinner over, chairs were
placed in a semicircle around the blazing fire, children sitting in
front or on the knee, and the topic of conversation would be old
70
family times, absent friends and passing events until about five
o'clock, when the old ladies' delight, a good cup of tea with a little
bit of green in it, was announced. After this ceremony, which
occupied about an hour, cards were introduced ; the family game,
twopence half-penny loo was played until supper-time, nine o'clock.
The coin was put in the snuffer-tray ; a cup or small basin called
the " pitcher " was also placed in the centre of the table, the holder
of the ace of trumps depositing a half -penny in it, the amount being
divided amongst the younger branches. After supper, again sitting
round the ashen faggot fire, healths and toasts were proposed, and
good old seasonable and patriotic songs sang until about midnight.
Then came the trying time of departure, with respect to children,
some sleepy, others crying. Before leaving, a hint was given that
the ham would be nice and solid about eleven the following day.
" Oh yes; I understand, you are all welcome. Now mind I shall
expect you." This led to another family day's enjoyment.
There was another prominent incident in these parties, the
maternal head-dress, net caps, the polls about three inches high,
lace trimmings, interspersed with various coloured ribbons. This
piece of gear having to last the season, the different milliners' tastes
were well scrutinized. Hair fronts, too, were worn across *the fore-
head, according to taste either plain or dangling curls, nicely put
out of hand by the barber. This paraphernalia was pinned up in
a white handkerchief and carried with great care through the streets
which was an intimation that " I am going to a party." No doubt
the reader will think why this show off, but the people had not the
convenience of cabs then as now. Sedan chairs were the only
conveyances available. In 1823, Humphrey Stark started four
pair-horse hackney coaches ; now we have about one hundred cabs
and flies. That assistants in shops might have an opportunity of
spending a few hours with their friends on Christmas eve, shutters
were put up about six o'clock, continuing a little later each
evening until New Year's eve.
Another event not noticed now was Old Christmas eve, on
the 5th January, when confectioners tried to excel each other
in their art. The streets were crowded with parents and children
visiting the various shops ; the outsiders were more numerous by
hundreds than buyers. Another Christmas pastime, but one
scarcely known to the present generation, was the "mummers,"
who would visit private houses, and ask permission to perform
before the assembled company. The different characters were
generally well got up, and the parts very creditably performed.
For this a liberal collection was made, and some of the good things
71
on the table presented to the players. It was customary at some of
the inns at this season to invite the " landlord's *' customers and
friends to supper, and have a bowl of punch, &c. I will give one
instance of it which was at the Barnstaple Inn, North street, kept
by Mr. Ireland. After supper the guests, numbering from thirty to
forty, would, if convenient, adjourn to the large kitchen, which was
nicely decorated. The chairman and vice with their yards of clay
occupied seats on each side of the fire place, with a huge ashen
faggot burning ; on this occasion they were named "Gog and Magog,"
it being in the " pattern parish " of St. David's. Mr. Carpenter,
the organist, with the elder portion of the choir, added to the
musical department by singing glees, catches, duetts, and songs ;
other parties filling up the interval with toasts, songs, or recitations,
and a very pleasant enjoyable evening was spent. Those who had
no domestic ties would remain until the small hours, when the kind
host and hostess would bring around tea or coffee. Such were the
incidents of bygone days, and to those whose memory goes back to
that old time, no doubt the foregoing remarks will bring to mind
many happy hours spent, many sincere friends, and many a good
old citizens.
ST. THOMAS OE EASTER FAIR FIFTY YEARS SINCE.
Easter Monday the wardens were chosen for the year ; the bells
ringing at intervals enlivened the visitors at this great annual
pleasure fair ; after dinner crowds of people with their children
from all parts of the city were seen wending their way to it. The
various standings for sale of toys, confectionery, fruits, oysteis,
cockles, &c. were erected in the street, commencing at the Pit to
the Church. No doubt many readers are not aware of the situation
of the then Pit ; it was the site of the present railway station, and
was about four feet below the roadway — consisting of an inn,
blacksmith's shop, and a dwelling house, almost adjoining Beaufort
House, which was originally the County Gaol. Opposite, in front
of the debtor's ward, were booths for theatrical performances,
shows, swings, boats, merry-go-rounds, &c. There being no police
regulations, footballs were freely used in the streets, much to the
annoyance of the stand keepers, the rickety ones sometimes having
to succumb.
If a fine day it was an animated sight in the three large fields
leading to Cowick; dotted all over with the rising generation
playing rounders, kicking football, &c., whilst drop the hanclker-
72
chief, kiss-in-the-ring, &c., were numerously patronised in the
secluded corners.
On the approach of evening the streets were the promenade, and
the "publics" were not forgotten, one or two fiddlers being
engaged in each house for a dance ; every available room was
occupied — bedrooms being unhung for the occasion. These houses
were considered free to all comers, and this made a constant rushing
up and down stairs. Light was obtained from long sixteens in tin
sockets nailed to the wall ; occasionally at a given signal all lights
were put out, and I will leave to the reader's imagination the con-
fusion in such a mixed assembly.
Theatres, shows, and booths were fully patronised, the "elite"
visiting "Horde's Theatre," prices of admission, dress boxes 3d.,
pit 2d., gallery Id., the former were allowed the privilege of
taking in a gallon or half a gallon of beer, and long pipes. Any
actor suffering from over exertion was presented with a cup of
beer from some one of the audience. There was no prompter and
many parts were forgotten, but the omissions were readily dictated
by some of the spectators. Thanks were returned by saying, " We
wish to give every satisfaction to such a genteel and appreciating
assemblage." I have known the above company remain occasion-
ally for three or four weeks, having I presume no engagement at
the Opera, Covent Garden, or Drury Lane. The fair lasted for
three days. It was also an occasion for housekeepers to invite
their friends to tea and have a look at the passing crowd.
The only dreaded authority by the youngsters was David Norton,
the parish constable, who was a daring and energetic man.
Above I alluded to the Debtors' ward. In January, 1855, under
a fresh arrangement, about thirty debtors were removed in vans
to the County Gaol. Mr. T. Burch was the last Governor.
PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE
CARDS OR SLIPS FROM THIS POCKET
UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY
Cossins, James
690 Reminiscences of Exeter
E9C67 fifty years since
Live Music Archive
Librivox Free Audio
Metropolitan Museum
Cleveland Museum of Art
Internet Arcade
Console Living Room
Books to Borrow
Open Library
TV News
Understanding 9/11